Presi Traverse, Madison through Jackson, 5/23/2009

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BIGEarl

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Nashua, NH
May 23, 2009: Presidential Traverse

Trails: Valley Way, Osgood Trail, Gulfside Trail, Airline, Lowes Path, Jefferson Loop, Mount Clay Loop, Crawford Path, Monroe Loop, Eisenhower Loop, Webster Cliff Trail, Webster-Jackson Trail

Summits: Madison, Adams, Jefferson, Clay, Washington, Monroe, little monroe, Franklin, Eisenhower, Pierce, Jackson

Hikers: Sue, Bryan, MadRiver (Rick), and me.


If summer starts on Memorial Day Weekend and ends on Labor Day Weekend, a Presi Traverse was definitely a great way to launch Summer ’09. Sue and I have a number of long hikes on our ’09 To-Do List and at least one Presi Traverse was listed. The only real scheduling concern was related to the State Park buildings on the summit of Mount Washington. We needed a place for water re-supply. We waited to do the hike until the Mount Washington summit buildings were open to the general public. This would provide a great mid-hike water re-supply point. The summit buildings opened on May 16 and we immediately started watching the weather for suitable conditions.

Logistics are a little more complicated on hikes like this. We had a couple vehicles to locate before the hike; one in case a mid-hike bail out was needed, and the other at the end location for use in retrieval of the other vehicles. Consequently, time is lost at the start and end of the day taking care of the vehicles. We met at the Highland Center at 3:45am. Considering Sue had a total drive time of about 3hr 30min from home this required an early wake-up call. The target on-trail time was 4:30am but we actually set off at 5:00am.

The forecast for the day was pretty good during the first half but started to go down a little in the afternoon. Some weather sources (various NWS offices, Weather.com, Accuweather, Wunderground) were showing an increased chance of rain starting around 2:00pm and others predicted a later change. One NWS site predicted the change to happen around midnight (this is the one I was pulling for).

A hike like this has many places where time can be lost. The accumulation of this lost time can be significant in the course of the day. I had prepared a set of detailed notes for the hike that helped manage the day. We were working with a general objective of spending approximately 5 minutes on each summit but 20 – 30 minutes on Mount Washington for a lunch break and water re-supply. In the course of the hike this adds up to 1 hour 30 minutes on top of the target hike time of 16 hours 30 minutes. A 5:00am start means finishing at 11:00pm – a nice day hike for sure.

Valley Way, our first trail segment, is generally in great shape. The trail is fairly dry all of the way to the ridge. There are only a couple blowdowns that are easy to pass. The snow is almost completely gone. Just below the treeline there were two places where we had a minor amount of snow to cross. We generally made a quick hike of Valley Way and arrived at the Madison Springs Hut comfortably ahead of plan. After a very short break at the hut we completed the up and down on Madison via the Osgood Trail. While hiking to the summit of Madison I remembered how tough hiking in the Northern Presidentials is with the endless rock-hopping on rough granite.

Off we went toward our next target – Mount Adams. From the hut we hiked Gulfside south to the Airline junction, made the left and headed for the summit. By now we were set in our hiking order; Sue and Bryan were out front with Rick and me in the back. Along the way we started to see other hikers; we passed one headed north on Gulfside, and noticed a couple more on the summit of Madison. We made it to the summit of Mount Adams, took the usual summit pictures, and promptly set off for Jefferson via Thunderstorm Junction.

The hike to Jefferson has only a small amount of snow and ice in the remaining snowfields on the North Slope (shown in the pictures). The surface was soft but firm and we were able to establish firm foot placements as we made our way across. We reached the Gulfside – Jefferson Loop junction, made the turn and headed for the summit. The Jefferson Loop is completely clear and we made quick work of this climb. Again, a few quick summit pictures and we were off for our next stop – Mount Clay.

After taking the Jefferson Loop back to Gulfside, we continued our trek south to the north junction of the Clay Loop Trail. This trail passes over the summit of Mount Clay and returns to Gulfside south of Clay. The south junction of the Clay Loop Trail with Gulfside is also the mid-point in our hike based on a combination of miles and total elevation gain (book time formula). The sky was getting dark with complete overcast but the clouds were still very high. We could see a great distance in all directions and could see no active storms. In a short period we were on the summit ridge of Mount Clay. There were a couple areas of snow on the northeast side of the ridge that were easy to cross. We reached the high point, Rick announced the new total for the day – Four!, and we were off for Mount Washington.

There are a couple steep sections of ledge that require care on the exit from Mount Clay but we all managed a safe exit. Back on Gulfside we were all back on familiar ground. Earlier this year all four of us (plus Fitz) started a hike of the southern Presidentials. At this location the visibility was a couple hundred feet, high wind, low temperature, and everything was loaded with rime. The hike ended after clearing Washington. Today was different. We made our way to the summit of Washington without any problems. Along the way we encountered a number of “coggers” (you know, people that ride the Cog up, walk back down, and then claim to have hiked Mount Washington). Many were in sneakers and light jackets. One guy was carrying a fishing pole (how are they biting?). One young woman commented “We are not prepared for this.” as they walked past. If something bad happened these folks would probably be identified as “Hikers” (not even close) with fishing equipment there’s probably a more appropriate label. We reached the summit and got the pictures taken care of before heading inside for some lunch and water. The place was busy but not packed. We were able to locate a free table and enjoy a break. Roughly thirty minutes after arriving we were heading south on the Crawford Path for our next target – Monroe.


To be continued.....
 
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Continued....

The Crawford Path is the start of greatly improved hiking conditions. The trail surface has many stones arranged to provide a relatively flat hiking surface, which is much easier on the feet. We made our way to the LOC Hut and had a quick break. I wanted to phone home with a progress report but couldn’t complete a call from Washington. I was able to get a strong signal and complete the call from the LOC Hut. As quickly as we arrived we were on our climb of Monroe. After Washington there are only two relatively significant climbs left for the day; 350 feet on Monroe and 350 feet on Eisenhower. The remainder of the elevation gain in the hike is generally distributed over the remaining miles and high places (Little Monroe, Franklin, Pierce, Jackson, and Webster). We reached the summit without any problems, got the summit pictures, and set off for Little Monroe, then Franklin, then Eisenhower – our next target 4K.

Monroe and Little Monroe represent a milestone for me. These peaks seem to be a transition point where the rough granite hiking of a Presi Traverse comes to an end. The trail is greatly improved for the remainder of the hike south. We made our way over Little Monroe and on to the south junction of the Monroe Loop and Crawford Path. From there, it is a quick walk to Franklin. We followed a spur path that veers off the Crawford Path, passes over Franklin, and returns to the Crawford Path south of Franklin. From here we had a little over a mile to reach the Eisenhower Loop – Crawford Path north junction.

We reached the Eisenhower Loop, made the turn, and started the climb. Approaching Eisenhower from the north is my favorite. There is a series of switchbacks that make the climb very easy. In no time we were on the upper section and making our way to the summit cairn. There we found a large pile of logs indicating some work was planned for this summer – probably erosion control. We noticed the clouds were starting to break up and there was occasional sun. We’re having a luck day with the weather. Our next target was Pierce.

As we hiked down from the summit of Eisenhower returning to the Crawford Path we passed a few more piles of logs. The trail crews will be putting in quite a few hours by the looks of things.

We hit the Crawford path and generally kept moving. The hike to Pierce passes through a section of Spruce. This area included the usual mud pits but there is also still some rotting snow there. I think poles are helpful for areas like this but Sue has other ideas. Her poles stayed on her pack. We cleared the spruce with dry, mud-free feet and reached the Webster Cliff – Crawford Path trail junction, made the turn, and headed for the summit of Mount Pierce. At the summit I pulled out my hike notes to check our progress. This is late in our hike plan and we had passed most of the places where time would be lost. At this point we were only 20 minutes behind book time – not bad for such a long hike.

We continued our hike south. Next target was a brief stop at the Mizpah Hut and the summits of Jackson and Webster. At the hut we found a full house. There was a large VFTT group; an organized event by sli74 - Gormet Hut Trip. There we found a great number of familiar faces and met a few new ones (planned group size was 45). After visiting for a while and having some incredible cake, we set off for the final leg of our trek. It’s getting late and before leaving the Mizpah Hut we all pulled out the headlights. The final portion of the hike will be under the lights.

Bob Hayes had reported the conditions on the trail leading to Jackson. There are spots of snow and monorail all easy to pass, along with the usual huge amount of mud. Slowly we made our way to the bog area where we found a large pile of planks – new bog bridges I assume. Then we finally reached the final steep section leading to the open ledges on Jackson. We started into the climb without any problems. Roughly half-way to the summit I reached further than I should have and applied more force with my right arm than I should have. The result was a dislocated right shoulder, again. Sue immediately knew what happened from the sounds I made. Everything stopped and I was in damage control mode. It didn’t take long, perhaps fifteen to thirty minutes, and I had everything back together with no extra parts lying around. We continued our climb and very soon we were making our way across the open ledges at the summit of Jackson. Again, more summit shots and it was time to go.

Our plan was to continue on to Webster, mainly because it was there. It isn’t a 4K peak, just a named peak. It’s dark so no views are available. And, there are a couple difficult trail sections. I was very familiar with the exit that was waiting from Jackson to Crawford Notch and we all agreed to skip Webster and just call it a hike.

The 2.5 mile hike out was uneventful. We slowly made our way off the summit and through a fair amount of remaining ice on the trail. Eventually we found clear, generally dry trail and cruised to the trailhead and the vehicle we left at ~4:00am. As it turned out, the NWS models that showed a significant weather change at midnight were completely correct. We reached the trailhead a little after midnight and crossed to the trailhead parking area on Route 302. Just as we reached the waiting truck it started to rain, really hard. We quickly tossed our things into the back and piled inside. First, a quick stop at the Highland Center and then retrieve the other two vehicles; one at Base Road and the other at Appalachia. Finally, the long drive south.

Thanks to Sue, Bryan, and Rick for a terrific adventure in the Presidentials. I know what it’s like to do this hike in completely clear conditions. Believe me, with the cloud cover and occasional sun we had ideal conditions for the hike. Now I need to start planning the next one.


I’ve posted some pictures from the day.


BIGEarl's Pictures


Straight to the slideshow




:D
 
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awesome day. first time i haven't been turned back by conditions on that traverse. definitely a tough finish, but totally worth it. thanks to the vftt folks at mizpah for their hospitality. the cake was delicious.
looking forward to weaseling out of work for more long saturdays this summer.
thanks to earl for organizing and sue and rick for having me along.

bryan
 
awesome day. first time i haven't been turned back by conditions on that traverse. definitely a tough finish, but totally worth it. thanks to the vftt folks at mizpah for their hospitality. the cake was delicious.
looking forward to weaseling out of work for more long saturdays this summer.
thanks to earl for organizing and sue and rick for having me along.

bryan
Glad you could get the time off to join the fun. Except for the last couple miles it was a pretty good day. :eek:

We've got more long Saturdays in the plans - you're always welcomed. Just don't expect cake. ;)



You guys picked the right day! Today was pretty miserable up there!

Good job!
The forecasts were pretty accurate this weekend - so far.



dumped all my pictures from the day into an online album. haven't had time to add captions.

http://community.webshots.com/album/572382282urcTrs

bryan

Thanks Bryan... Mine are up now too.


:D


I’ve posted some pictures from the day.


BIGEarl's Pictures


Straight to the slideshow
 
What time did you guys get to Washington? Sounds like we did not miss each other by much. I was there from about 1;30 to 1:55.
 
What time did you guys get to Washington? Sounds like we did not miss each other by much. I was there from about 1;30 to 1:55.
We were hiking pretty much on book time all the way south, which was our intent. On plan, we should have hit Washington at ~2:50pm. The time stamp on the first summit shot is 2:57pm. :)

I saw your trail conditions report but couldn’t really understand what you hiked. I assume it was Jefferson, Washington, Monroe, and possibly Eisenhower. :confused:
 
Jefferson Notch Road & then Caps Ridge then south. So summits were Jefferson, Washington, Monroe, Eisenhower & Pierce. Sounds like I was about an hour ahead of you at Washington. On Franklin, I ran into a couple of guys who may have been looking at camping at LOC. Did you see anyone looking to camp near the hut?
 
…... On Franklin, I ran into a couple of guys who may have been looking at camping at LOC. Did you see anyone looking to camp near the hut?
That’s interesting.

We had a couple guys with a yellow dog ahead of us. I believe they passed us on the north side of Jefferson. They were visible up ahead climbing Clay. And, the dog was tied up outside the Sherman Adams Summit Building when we arrived. Then, they were gone.

When we reached the LOC Hut there was nobody around. We stopped for a very short break and promptly set off for the summit of Monroe. Near the top of the main climb I looked back and saw one person with no pack walking around the north end of the LOC Hut with a yellow dog. I recall looking around the place and there was no tent. I guess it’s possible they were there all along and planning to stay in the dungeon.


:confused:
 
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