Your road bike.

[bikehikeskifish]

Inflating to the appropriate pressure is also a must. The higher the better.

Higher pressure = less rolling resistance and fewer flats but it also = a smaller contact patch with the road and therefore increases your chance of a slide out. Your weight also plays into this, as do road conditions - wet, sandy, snowy, icy, etc - and the tire itself. I prefer (highly prefer) kevlar belted folding tires (for clinchers... tubulars/sewups don't pinch). Just like road / snow tires, softer rubber = better grip but decreased tire life.

I've ridden over obstacles in cyclocross with 35PSI or less w/o pinching - 35PSI or less was required for gripping sand and/or mud and/or wet grass. Higher pressure does forgive technique.

Tim

 

[paul ron]

The higher preasure makes a difference (110psi) but the ride gets very hard. My bike's frame is a bit too large for me so floating isn't as easy as it sounds. But I prefer the larger frame when I tried on the others. The "correct" sized frame seems like my arms at the wrong place n my cranks are at the wrong position or too short.

Since I've gotten into the mtn bike, my road bike stays in the garage. I feel I need to do 50miles on the raod bike to get the same workout I get in 25 on the mtn bike. I do enjoy the speed of the raod bike but that gets dangerous on the greenways of NYC... too many road hazards, pot holes n junk on the trails.

 

[Taconic]

My "road bike" is a GT Avalanche 3.0.

I do most of my riding on road, but I honestly cannot get used to a road bike frame. I grew up riding mountain bikes and doing a fair bit of offroad stuff. When it came time to get a new bike a few years back I tested a number of road bikes and didn't like the feel of any of them. The CoG and riding positions were way different than I was used to over the past 20 years and I constantly felt like I was going to fall on my face.

So I picked up a GT and just put 2.0" slicks on it.

Sure, the guys on real road bikes blow past me, but at least I'm comfortable.

 

[paul ron]

But you know, at 18mph that GT is giving you a real workout. On that road bike 18mph is just the warmup/cool off ride. I love tailing the roadies n seeing em dust me as they shift to a larger ring. I always give em a run for the money though.

 

[hikerfast]

1999 lemond tourmalet steel bike. bout 22 pounds. sometimes i think of upgrading, but i should lose weight on my middle, before i lose weight on the bike

 

[Jay H]

My "road bike" is a GT Avalanche 3.0.

I do most of my riding on road, but I honestly cannot get used to a road bike frame. I grew up riding mountain bikes and doing a fair bit of offroad stuff. When it came time to get a new bike a few years back I tested a number of road bikes and didn't like the feel of any of them. The CoG and riding positions were way different than I was used to over the past 20 years and I constantly felt like I was going to fall on my face.

So I picked up a GT and just put 2.0" slicks on it.

Sure, the guys on real road bikes blow past me, but at least I'm comfortable.

Whatever is comfy for you. I've done 120 miles on my Marin before, riding from St. Jean Sur Richelieu in Quebec to Burlington VT on a tour around Lake Champlain. It was my first bike tour and I didn't have full panniers (just 2 Carradice monster sized rear panniers) and I had semislicks. I can actually get up to about 16-17mph before I lose out on the gearing on it, I have replaced the standard MTB triple with slightly larger teethed middle and big ring on it. That's one thing I would do if I was to use a MTB exclusively on road or MUPs..

jay

 

[LittleBear]

2000 Klein Quantum. Love it!!!

 

[IndianChris]

Wow...some really nice bikes out there. Maybe some day we could hook up and do a VFTT tour of the Catskills or Adirondacks or Whites or Rockies

The bike I currently ride on the roads is a Klein Pulse (mountina bike) with bar ends that I got off e-bay for $400. It's perfect for what I used to do. I have a nice hilly road route by where I live and along it there is a point where I used to duck into the woods and hit the trails for a little while (Sunken Meadow and Cardiac Hill). Since I changed the knobbies for slicks, I skip the woods part of it now (and move much faster). The bike has a real cheap set of shocks up front but they're perfect for dealing with the pot holes here on Long Island - something about the bike I will miss if I get a road bike. I miss the woods but the road portion is plently hilly...over 3000 feet of elevation gain in 35 miles.

On the trails I have another Klein - 2000 Attitude Comp with Chris King Headset (which everyone should have) and a Marzochii Bomber BAM 80. Nice bike but getting long in the tooth.

Go bike forum!

 

[bikehikeskifish]

There is a popular ride in the Whites called 4 notches and a pass:
~90 miles, 5100'

Start at Loon, West on 112 through KINSMAN NOTCH
Right on 116 through Easton to the airport,
Right on Wells Road to FRANCONIA NOTCH (well, Bethlehem, Five Corners)
Left on route 3 - stop at Foster's for a break
Right on 302 through CRAWFORD NOTCH
Right on Bear Notch Road through BEAR NOTCH
Right on 112 and over the KANCAMAGUS PASS

Zip through the hairpin and back to Loon.

http://www.mapmyride.com/ride/united-states/nh/lincoln/270637102


Tim

 

[IndianChris]

Cyclocross Bike.

I am torn right now between a road bike and a cyclocross bike. On a lot of manufacturer websites, cyclocross bikes are categorized under the road bikes. I would most likely use the bike 90% of the time on the roads but I would like the traction and clearence that a cyclocross bike offers for those times when the pavement ends and turns to gravel like in the Catskills or Adirondacks or even in some places here on Long Island like in Head of the Harbor or St. James.

If I am riding on the roads most of the time, is there any dissadvantage to riding a cyclocross bike. I suppose with the knobby tires, I wouldn't be moving as fast. Anything else? Shorter cranks?

Here's a scenario...have two sets of rims - one for when I know I will be on/off road and one for totally when I'll be on road.

Any other input about the differences, advantages, disadvantages would be appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[spencer]

If you want max versatility get a CX bike and another set of tires, or complete wheels if you can swing it.

CX and road frames are quite similar. You don't need different wheels, per se but it's much easier to have a second set all mounted and read to switch out, rather than having to change the tubes and tires each time. This means you'll need wheels, tires, tubes and a cassette. All that can be had for ~$400 if you aren't too picky.

If you get a road frame you can't always go the other way b/c the frame will not likely handle wide tires (32-35mm). There are other differences, including geometry, frame bosses, etc. but those don't matter nearly as much as being able to fit wider tires.

You can also get more or less knobby CX tires so if you start with an all around good CX tire and you aren't used to riding a racing-style road bike anyway, you won't feel like you are missing anything.

 

[bikehikeskifish]

I ride my cross bike with road tires all winter long - it is my winter commuting and training bike. A lot of elite cross racers will ride the same frame year-round, because it fits them well and transitioning can be problematic. Geometries are not that different these days and you probably do not want to change crank lengths between bikes as that can cause knee problems (or power problems or both.)

The only thing I really notice as different is the brakes - the road brakes are much better, on purpose. The CX brakes (cantilevers) I have purposely set up to be less grabby because it reduces the chance of locking up the wheels on loose material. Switching wheels and rims - make sure you set up the brakes to close properly for both - some rims are wider than others, for example, or the braking surfaces are slightly taller or shorter.

You can get fenders on the CX bike more easily as there is more clearance, as well as wider tires if that's what you wish.

Tim

 

[iceNsnow]

The only thing I really notice as different is the brakes - the road brakes are much better, on purpose.

Tim

Actually my CX bike has way better brakes than my road bike. Disc brakes are awesome off road in water, mud, leaves, leaves and mud etc.

I would get a road bike if you are riding on the road. For the small amount of time you expect to ride off road, get a cheapo, used off road bike. But for maximum efficiency you really don't want to compromise the benefits of being on road w/ something more weighty, less maneuverable than a road bike. Stick w/ what the bike is designed for. For the other times beg , borrow or steal something ......

 

[bikehikeskifish]

Actually my CX bike has way better brakes than my road bike. Disc brakes are awesome off road in water, mud, leaves, leaves and mud etc.

I would get a road bike if you are riding on the road. For the small amount of time you expect to ride off road, get a cheapo, used off road bike. But for maximum efficiency you really don't want to compromise the benefits of being on road w/ something more weighty, less maneuverable than a road bike. Stick w/ what the bike is designed for. For the other times beg , borrow or steal something ......

My road and CX bikes are effectively the same weight. If anything, the CX frame is lighter. The 8sp Dura Ace (CX) is definitely lighter than the 10sp Ultegra (road). Tube materials are similar. Ride is similar. Power transfer feels no different.

The effective differences are clearance for wider tires and cantilever brake mounts over dual-pivot. No experience with disc brakes, but I cannot recall ever having seen them in a race in New England in 12 years of CX racing. As the UCI rules have evolved to reduce the number of obstacles, preclude single track, and towards faster racing surfaces, even the geometry differences of old (high BB for example) have gone away.

Tim

 

[Jay H]

Tim, not that I race or involved with Cycocross but I think UCI bans disc brakes for CX, at least on UCI sanctioned races...

Jay

 

[bikehikeskifish]

Tim, not that I race or involved with Cycocross but I think UCI bans disc brakes for CX, at least on UCI sanctioned races...

Jay

Yes they do - but only elite, UCI sanctioned races. I've never seen them at any grass roots event for that matter either. Aren't they much heavier too?

Tim

 

[Jay H]

Yes they do - but only elite, UCI sanctioned races. I've never seen them at any grass roots event for that matter either. Aren't they much heavier too?

Tim

I would imagine they would be, but at least the mass is more centered around the hub than say dual-pivot calipers or linear pull brakes...

Jay

 

[bikehikeskifish]

I would imagine they would be, but at least the mass is more centered around the hub than say dual-pivot calipers or linear pull brakes...

Jay

When carrying in a CX race, I don't think it matters too much In rotating weight terms, close to the hub is better for sure.

Tim

 

[iceNsnow]

From the Q!

"discs are fine in any cross race except a UCI elite field. Even in those races you don't have a prohibition - it's just that the UCI hasn't "approved" them. I use them on my Vicious Cycles singlespeed. They're slightly heavy but great. Since they're so powerful, in a normal cross race you can brake later in the approach to a turn. In a thing like the Iron Cross they're valuable for all the reasons mtb racers use them. You can't use them with a carbon fork but I don't think carbon forks are a good idea for CX anyway"

 

[jrichard]

Could a cyclocross bike be expected to hold up to tractor ruts and a bit of root hopping, for say, 15 years? Or are they built primarily for a season or two of races?

Like IndianChris, I'm also thinking about a replacement bike. I'm torn between a mountain bike and a cyclocross bike. I'm not interested in competition, I always ride with panniers. Also, the price has to be low enough that I can leave it outside without worrying about it (so probably $1000 or less).

The commute is about 15 miles. The terrain is hilly NH. The surface is paved road, dirt road, and dirt path. Depending on the day, from 2 to 10 miles is dirt.

Plugging in these variables, I keep coming back to a mountain bike, but maybe because that's all I know. Talk me into it!