boot grease recommendation?

[Peaks]

Nikwax

If you listen to the boot manufacturers, most recommend a water based product like Nikwax.

 

[Dalraida]

Bear attractant

Back around 83 I spent a very wet week in the woods on a BP. Being frantic to renew the waterproofing on my Limmers I ended up using bacon grease on my boots. It worked, smelled wicked good and my boots were not harmed. I'm still hiking in them. I do recall wondering at the time if I should hang them at night with my food

 

[KMartman]

Back around 83 I spent a very wet week in the woods on a BP. Being frantic to renew the waterproofing on my Limmers I ended up using bacon grease on my boots. It worked, smelled wicked good and my boots were not harmed. I'm still hiking in them. I do recall wondering at the time if I should hang them at night with my food

Is there anything PORK isnt good for....PIGS RULE...

M

 

[ChrisB]

Back to Biwell!

I recently switched from Nikwax back to Biwell on my Nubuk Asolo 555 boots.

The Nikwax seems to wear off very quickly in the field. At the start of a wet day the boot toes would be dry, but by mid-day they would be showing signs of water penetration.

Biwell lasts a lot longer and, if rubbed in hard, penetrates deeper.

Even so, on a recent trip down N. Percy in heavy rain my feet got soaked. I forgot my low gaitors and my socks wicked in enough water to float my feet.

So gaitors are part of the equation as well!

cb

 

[Grumpy]

. . . on a recent trip down N. Percy in heavy rain my feet got soaked. I forgot my low gaitors and my socks wicked in enough water to float my feet.

So gaitors are part of the equation as well!

Good observation. Right on the money!

G.

 

[Ken999]

Check here for G-wax paste.

http://www.lathropandsons.com/catalog/index.php

I have not tried the paste or the boots, but here great things about both.

 

[bobmak]

The Nikwax seems to wear off very quickly in the field. At the start of a wet day the boot toes would be dry, but by mid-day they would be showing signs of water penetration. cb

My observation as well, which is why I went back to Sno Seal. These boots are pretty old as I stated previously, and still going strong. I am pretty happy with Sno Seal.

My method is to put the oven (I have an electric range) on warm, let it heat up to about 110 F, shut off the oven, put the boots in and prop the door open a little with a large spoon, let the boots warm up for 2 or 3 minutes, take them out, apply Sno Seal, then wipe off excess.

 

[dave.m]

Chris Townsend has published the theory that a quick drying boot (or sneaker) is more important than waterproofing a boot. (I presume he means for non-winter.)

In general, I think Townsend gives great advice, which is why I think folks should read his books. I agree with the above statement, regardless of who said it though. I heard this first from the folks at Limmer and rejected it when I heard it. However, I've come to believe it.

If you listen to the boot manufacturers, most recommend a water based product like Nikwax

I've noticed this too. And I'm not saying that they are wrong. But, I think it bears mentioning that the manufacturers should be giving advice which will minimize the number of warranty claims they need to deal with. This goal may or may not have anything to do with waterproofing performance.

Here's my take on it...

Silicone is nasty stuff and should only be used on silicone tanned boots (like most work boots) until it no longer works and then you move to some sort of lube.

Waxed based products keep water out well but it is not clear to me if they really protect the leather. The folks at Sno-seal claim that the lack of mobility of the wax is a benifit. See: http://www.atsko.com/T3.html I don't understand how this is supposed to help keep leather supple over time. I used Sno-Seal almost exclusively on one pair of boots that ultimately died from cracking. I used it a lot on a second pair of boots and then switch to animal fats. That pair of boots died from cracking.

My current boots have seen nothing but animal fat based products. I've only been using Limmer's boot grease for 5 or 6 years so it's too early for me to tell. See:
http://www.limmerboot.com/basiccare.html

In terms of keeping your boots dry, the only solution (and its is a partial one at best) is to use full coverage rubber randed supergaitors which are glued on with ShoeGoo or its equivalant. If you are dealing with norwegian welted boots, you need to consider how to waterproof the welts and the sides of the leather midsoles. I use Seam Grip for this (after a good cleaning with acetone).

 

[una_dogger]

I've used Sno Seal for about 30 years, no cracking or dry rot. I think the trick with Sno Seal is how you apply it. I remove the laces and in-sole, pre-heat an oven to 150 and bake the boots for about 5 minutes, apply Sno-Seal generously, return boots to oven and repeat. I repeat about 3 or 4 times, until it's obvious all the Sno-Seal has melted in and been absorbed.

I like Snoseal also. I use a blowdryer to preheat and reheat.

 

[dave.m]

I've used Aqua-Seal for years with good results. This spring, I changed to Limmer boot grease, thinking it must be good if it's from Limmer. It seems to have dried out the leather. It goes on well and works on the trail, but by the next week the leather seems dry.

I wonder (this is just a guess) if the silicone based Aqua-Seal you've been using has failed to condition your boots well. Could be that the leather is "thirsty" for oil.

 

[DougPaul]

I've used Aqua-Seal for years with good results. This spring, I changed to Limmer boot grease, thinking it must be good if it's from Limmer. It seems to have dried out the leather. It goes on well and works on the trail, but by the next week the leather seems dry.

I wonder (this is just a guess) if the silicone based Aqua-Seal you've been using has failed to condition your boots well. Could be that the leather is "thirsty" for oil.

Another possibility is some interaction between the different treatments.

I've always stuck with one waterproofer for each pair of boots.

Doug

 

[forestgnome]

Whoa!!! Thanks much for all the thoughtful responses. I'll need to reread this whole thread a few times. Where else does one find such passion for hiking-boot maintenance?!

Happy Trails!

 

[JimB]

After a quick read-through I didn't see any mention of Mink Oil. When my son and I were ready for an especially muddy hike or wet winter trip, I would always say "time to get out the bear grease" and glom on a thick coating being extra careful to smear it into all the nooks and crannies of whatever boots I was going to wear. It seems to do a good job keeping out the wetness and protecting the leather. I always have a tub or 2 rolling around in the back of the van.

 

[DougPaul]

I didn't see any mention of Mink Oil.

Mink oil softens leather and, IIRC is generally not recommended for hiking boots. (I'd check my reference books, but they are in packing boxes right now.)

Doug

 

[JimB]

Wow, I looked it up and "do not use mink oil on your boots" or they will end up like mine . It will soften the leather.

 

[DougPaul]

Wow, I looked it up and "do not use mink oil on your boots" or they will end up like mine . It will soften the leather.

IIRC, one pundit claimed that it will also help leather to rot.

Normally I'd try to find the reference before making comment such as this, but as noted earlier, my references are inaccessible. Can anyone confirm?

Doug

 

[Dalraida]

Mink Oyle

Limmer boot gease used to contain Mink Oil years ago but the formulation changed about the time they started putting it in plastic containers. Now-a-days it is not mentioned. 1980 Limmers still going strong

 

[DougPaul]

I believe I remember the thread, but don't think they said it would rot the leather but rather soften it the point of being mostly useless.

I tried a search engine and found some evidence that mink oil can go rancid and rot leather. References and excerpts below.

Doug

Search: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q="mink+oil"+leather+rot&btnG=Google+Search

Results:
http://www.negroleaguestore.com/Jacket_Care.htm
Use of mink oil or other animal fats will darken leather. Animal fat can also turn rancid, causing the stitching and leather to rot.

http://64.177.213.236/xcart//customer/product.php?productid=16211&cat=257
This product is terrific on all your leather and vinyl items. Bees wax is the "plus ingerdient". It cleans, softens, waterproofs, snowproofs and sunproofs with no bleedback.It fights mold, mildew and rot.

http://www.flheritage.com/museum/collections/artifacts/acs4/
Research has shown that many oils and fats used in leather dressings (neatsfoot oil, mink oil, lanolin) oxidize and harden over time, causing the leather to become even stiffer and brittle; oils also will darken with time, thus darkening the leather.

http://www.e-sportsemporium.com/pilot.asp?pg=Glove_Care
There are a lot of different ways that people use to break in their baseball gloves. I think 'break in' are the operative words here. Many of these methods involve products such as Neatsfoot Oil, Lanolin, Mink Oil, and water. Each one of these products are bad for leather. The Neatfoot and Mink Oil are animal by-products and as such may turn rancid over time.

Water will dry out the leather which will cause the leather fibers to break. Lanolin is a plant by-product and this too can rot after a while. What your glove needs is a product that is neutrally based and will not rot. Peacard Glove Conditioner is that product. Heat is also an enemy of leather. Never, ever put your glove near a heater or in an oven! This only dries out the leather which causes fiber breakage.

http://www.water-hole.com/leathercare.html
Use of Mink oil or other animal fats will darken leather. Animal fat can turn rancid, causing the stitching and leather to rot.

Not everyone seems to agree:
http://www.nationmaster.com/encyclopedia/Leather
Leatherusually vegetable-tanned leathercan be oiled to improve its water resistance. This supplements the natural oils remaining in the leather itself, which can be washed out through repeated exposure to water. Frequent oiling of leather, with mink oil, neatsfoot oil or a similar material, keeps it supple and improves its lifespan dramatically.

 

[Neil]

What a thread!

I used sno-seal on my first ever hiking boots (1970's) untill I heard the silicone would eat the stitching. Exit sno-seal. Enter TLC for Technica Leather Conditioner which boasted an absence of Si. The boots lasted through three re-soles before wearing out at the toe.

Is sno-seal OK now?

In our house there must be 10 different pairs of hiking boots and shoes. We always buy whatever the sales person says to buy for a protectant so now we have a basket full of all kinds of products from Beeswax to Nikwax. Of course I forget which product goes with which boot so now I throw on anything.

Maybe this explains my dried out Raichles?

One more question: I must have applied a gallon of waterproofer/protectant to each one of that first pair of boots I owned. Where did it all GO?

With the move towards lighter trail runners is the boot protection industry headed for a downturn?

 

[prino]

What a thread!


One more question: I must have applied a gallon of waterproofer/protectant to each one of that first pair of boots I owned. Where did it all GO?

Neil, if you measure the thickness of your boots, I think you'll find they are .030" to .050" thicker than when you bought them.
A good leather boot does absorb a lot, but a proportion ends up in the environment just like all that windshield washer fluid we keep spraying.

Interesting thread.... I've been using Nikwax almost exclusively since 1979 when I bought my first pair. I usually make a pair of boots last me 10 years on average (I'm on my third pair) so I think I can safely say Nikwax works well.