Mount Rainier 8/1-8/3 Part 1

[giggy]

Mount Rainier 8/1-8/3

Where to start…… this was simply the best and most rewarding climb of my hiking or climbing experiences. The people I climbed with were simply the best in competence and in character. It simply could not have gone better.

Special mention goes to Guinness for making it all possible - he went above and beyond from day 1 way back - more than I could ever imagined.

This is my account of the climb and it may differ than some of the others– this is how I recall it. It’s a long report – but this is a beautiful mountain and I did my best to tell the story as I viewed it.

I guess is all started before the trip out west. Rainier had been a “dream” of mine for about 5 years now and about 6 months ago I started a thread to see if anyone who had done it before wanted head out to the Cascades and lead the trip. I had been struggling with the decision to go guided with RMI or not for many reasons.

Guinness (Ed) had 3 rainier summits (and a few Hood ones as well) under his belt and agreed to organize this and he did a job unparallel to anything I have ever seen. He suggested hikes, training, books, etc.. Early on - I personally did hours (that turned into days and weeks) of research. Reading every trip report I could find, read guide books, emailed and phoned folks who did the climb. I really needed to know if this was something I though I could accomplish without a guide. The answer I was being told was yes – but I had to go with the goal of Camp Muir and anything else after that a bonus. Weather had to be perfect and the thin air had to agree with me. But if that worked and we had sensible people, we could do it.

Many people from VFTT helped me along the way and I am no Rainier Expert by any means - but if anyone is ever intersted in doing this amazing mountain - I would be glad to pass on anything I have learned at anytime. just PM me this year next year - 10 years - whatever.

I felt the climbs I had done in the Whites had served well as a training ground and with a little reading, training, and a smart and strong team – it could be done unguided. I do want to stress from what I saw and experienced from RMI, they are a top notch operation with probably some of the best mountaineers on the planet. When you see your climbing on the same mountain (and we did see these people at one time or another ) with Dave Hahn, Ed Veisteurs, Brent Okita, Craig van Hoy, Joe Horiskey, and Peter and Lou Whittaker, you know your in for the real deal. Any rumors I had heard that they thought they owened the mountain and disrespected unguided climbers were soon squashed. There was none of this and they were friendly and very professional. And they do a great job of maintaining the DC route. A great job!

Flying into Seattle, you can’t miss Rainier on a clear day and I was soon thinking “oh my god – did I bite off more than I can chew”. This is a huge, impressive mountain.

I know people on VFTT have done bigger, longer and better things – but this is a tough mountain no matter how you slice it.

Arrival Day – Whittakers bunkhouse

We just hung out, went over gear and got something to eat and just soaked in the atmosphere here. I walk up to the bar and there is Peter and Lou Whittaker sitting at the tables – both say hi to pretty much everyone. I am in awe and a bit nervous but everyone is very friendly.


Day 1 – training day with RMI.

We thought it was a smart idea to take a customized one day training class with RMI. Our instructor was Brent Okita (who had summited Everest among other big mountains) and was one of the people who found Mallory’s body up there a few years back. Brent was an amazing professional and very friendly. Our other guide was young first year guide named Ben – who was also top notch and you can see he is going to be a great climber and guide. (he already is a great climber) Soon the jokes started courtesy of SherapK - and led too Brent every five minutes saying – if only if you guys were going with RMI… but it was done in good fun. Training consisted of team self arrest, rope travel, crevasse rescue among other things (some review-some new) and Brent told us the danger zones of the route - which unlike the Whites - are pretty much the entire route above Muir with about 3 safe zones (rest areas). I understand totally now why RMI sets a steady pace. You simply don’t want to stop except at these spots. Anyway - training was at about 7000 feet to find snow to do this. By the end of the day, Brent saw that we had done our homework commented that “this obviously wasn’t the first time we were exposed to this stuff” and that we were the strongest private group that he saw this year. I think he was sincere as well. He also said – “he wished we were climbing with RMI” At the time I was a little skeptical as this huge mountain was above us – but now I see he was probably right – we were strong and we were prepared – not to sound pompous – we just did our homework and took preparation seriously

 

[giggy]

Mount Rainier 8/1-8/3 Part 2

Day 2 climb to Muir.

Locals call this a hike to Muir – Skyline Trail is paved for the first half mile or so and then turns to well graded trail – much easier than our trails out east to this point IMHO. I am hiking primarily with Jay and Yvonne up to Pebble Creek and we are in the lead and moving very slow compared to NE travel. I have never been above MT Washington hiking so I am taking it very slow and steady and not taking chances. – we are all feeling good so far.

We reach Pebble Creek and the start of the infamous MUIR snowfield. All 12 of us rest, eat drink and wait for each other. I want to hike up the muir snowfield with my tentmate TMAX in case we need to drop tent and camp due to weather. You never know.

I thought once on the Muir snowfield it was pretty much snow slog to Muir at about 10,000 feet. This is basically like climbing Mount Washington in on a warm spring day in snow up a non technical route. Day before was hot as hell, but today it is foggy, misty and visibility is about 30 feet or so. This helps us though as we are not dying in sweat and we are actually getting cold while taking rest spots at Pebble Creek and Moon Rocks. There is a well worn boot track and the rangers wand the route. Really easy to stay on path. Route finding not a problem and there are many people going up it with us including a few RMI groups. Pretty much hike up the snowfield with Jay, Gunniness, Skimom, Yvonne, Marco and TMAX. I never take the lead - Jay and Guinness pretty much take turns leading - Gunniness because he knows the route and Jay simply because he is fast. We rest at Moon rocks and shortly after that we start breaking out of the clouds and Camp Muir goes in and out of sight as the clouds blow by. A ranger comes down and tells us it is like winter at muir and last night the winds were 50 mph and tents were being blown over. Wonderful. This was simply not true - it was cool and windy – but hardly like winter. Tents were flapping - but nothing was blown over - there was sleeping mat that took a quick trip down the cowlitz though from 2 guys.

Either the ranger was totally off – or we are just used to worse weather. Don’t know.

I yell over to Skimom – should start putting a glacier glasses on?? – and she says she thinks so - we move to an rock outcrop about 1000 feet below Muir, rest, drink, put our glasses and sunscreen on. We realize we should have probably done this sooner – but no biggie. The last 1000 feet or so to Muir seemed to go on forever – the first of us start arriving about 5 hours after starting from paradise and I think the last came in about 6 hours. Respectable time for the heavy loads we are carrying – roughly 50 pounds.

The first person we see is VFTT’s own Sir Edmund (Geoffrey) – who offers many congratulations. He was doing an RMI trip that night to the summit. We saw him prior to that at the bunkhouse and knew he was going to be there.

The rest of the night we set up camp and get some rest - its not that great out, but by 5 or 6 pm it starts improving and the sun starts to shine. We melt snow, eat some food. I felt really good so far and felt very strong on the hike to Muir – no headache, keeping well hydrated. – but I go shovel some snow and I am tired. Altitude. After we eat I crash out and get a decent night sleep.

Day 3 - rest day.

Woke up and still no headache!! In my opinion – this is what made the trip successful - spent a day at Muir to rest acclimatize and prepare for summit attempt. I really felt this extra day eliminated any rushing and forgetting things, etc….We melt snow pretty much all day, eat and get our gear ready. I prepare the rope with figure 8's at about 25 foot intervals (per RMI recommendation). We hear most crevasses are pretty exposed and snow bridges are basically strong. Rangers say route is in great shape. Weather is going to be perfect. Great – we are pumped and ready to go. I climb up near Muir Peak and get some photos of the lower Cowlitz glacier – listening to it creak and groan as it moves downhill at about 2 feet per day (do I have that right) One spot where there is a rock in the climbers path about a mile away - a team moves by it returning from summit and it becomes clear the rock is the size of a car. Wow!!

Then Sir Edmund comes in gives us beta on the climb – he just summited and came down with RMI. For the record - Sir Edmund is an extremely strong hiker and he says – it was very tough and dangerous with rockfall and such - he talks to SherpaK briefly before heading down with RMI. I try to stay focused and say – I am ready for this - but when a hiker you know is stronger than you says it really kicked his butt – you start to doubt yourself – and I did privately. Our team talked it over and we also have a very strong hiker (ARM) who does his best to my spirits up. - saying we can do it and we have a strong team. I would be lying if I said I wasn’t nervous as hell.

The nightly rockfall and glacier creaking and cracking doesn’t help me sleep either. While the Whites mountains in NH are impressive in their own right - it is very clear – we are not in the Whites anymore I get about an hour sleep.

 

[giggy]

Mount Rainier 8/1-8/3 Part 3

Day 4 – the summit attempt.

We were slated to go last because it was thought we would be the fastest team. It’s pretty hectic at Muir when all the teams and RMI are trying leave. We leave last out of everyone at 2am. Ok let’s go. Its goes really smooth right to the top of Cathedral Gap. The line of headlamps in front of us is impressive. Cathedral gap was scree, loose rock and sand for about 200 or 300 feet vertical. In all honesty who knows how high it was. I had no problems going up this but I can climb rock in crampons with very little trouble. We are moving at a slow but steady pace and I am feeling great taking it all in. So far so good. We see our first casualty at the top of Cathedral Gap in a sleeping bag. The climb is over for him. But its nobody from our group. Ok – no time to linger – we enter a section prone to rockfall and we continue on off the Gap and onto the Ingraham Glacier. – A quick look to the climbers right and I can see monster crevasses in the trail of my headlamp. I should be terrified, but I am just in awe and paying very much attention because now there is obviously rockfall potential because the trail is littered with rocks. No time to be scared – just move. We rest very briefly at Ingraham Flats. We move at a good pace up the Ingraham and take a right and soon we are over another monster crevasse and I know its coming because Arm was very good at communicating what was coming ahead (ARM was leading, then SkiMom, TMAX and me.) I could hear. The voices in front of me going – ohhhh my god!! . It was impressive!! No time stop as we come upon what is known as the bowling alley (we actually passed under the Ingraham Icefall prior) but didn’t know due to darkness. We were moved quick thru this section which you can see is pounded by literally tons of rockfall from the Disappointment Cleaver above. We finally gain the Cleaver and its we can see hints of the huge and I mean huge crevasses below. The exposure is coming clear now - do not fall here or your done for sure. We start up the nose of the Cleaver and its class 1 or 2 rock – not nearly as bad as I expected (personal opinion) – it wasn’t fun - but not too bad. Soon I get hit by a rock the size of a grapefruit.. No biggie - no pain and I am ok. Must have been on adrenaline – because I got a good size bruise now – and I rarely bruise so must have got hit good. No problem keep going. We got lost for about 2 minutes (not lost really – disorientated for a couple of minutes) Thanks to Jay - we got back on track - - Not hard to get lost on the Cleaver. Soon we find our way onto the steep snow that switchbacks up the rest of the cleaver. And boy is it steep – my guess would be 45-50 degree snow. No fixed ropes – but a good climbers path ensures good footing. Besides the sheer exposure – it was not too hard climb up it. It was hard – but doable no doubt. I got hit with some ice from climbers above - but like the rock – not a big deal. On Rainier – we were moving much slower than we do in the NE – so I was never gasping for air. Thank god.

Finally we top out on the top of the DC (12,300 or so) and we take our first real rest - down parkas came out, food and water in. This was one of the greatest moments of the climb - I got to share the sunrise over the DC with some great people and it was here that I first thought – I have a chance to top out on this mountain as I was still feeling pretty damn strong and so was everyone else.

We rested maybe 10 minutes and off we were again. From the base of the Cleaver, we piggybacked and switched leads with the group of Sherpa, Jay and Yvonne. (This continued to about 13,000 feet).

The route traverses pretty far right this year (I heard it was different from most years) to the climbers right once on top of the DC and goes was over to the Emmons Glacier. It was rumored to add an extra mile to the climb than an average year. I don’t know the truth or not to this). Then one of the scariest sections in my opinion. Not too steep or anything, but the route switchback 3 times in front of a wall of huge seracs. The size of houses. I couldn’t get out of this section fast enough and were there for at least 30 minutes.

The rest of the climb was basically just steep switchbacks over and around huge crevasses, snow bridges that were making me nervous as it was heating up- to about 13,500 or so and then there is the last rest break – nice flat area to rest, eat and rink for the final push to the summit. By now – it’s hot as the sun is blaring. SherpaK, Jay and Yvonne are right behind us as we pull out of high break - and now I know we are all going to make it. Adrenaline starts’ pumping. This final section was tough - I was getting a bit tired and it just seemed to go on - I knew when I saw rocks we weree close to the rim – then I saw teams coming down and I new we were really close. We see Brent (our trainer) and he congratulates us – I reply- I am not there yet. He says – basically - your there and soon enough we reached the crater rim, drop rope and gear and head over too Columbia Crest. The 4 of us tried to hit the summit together – but everyone was pretty beat and we moseyed across at our own pace – hit the summit, signed the book and chatted another group that came up the Emmons route. It was 59 degrees on the summit - which made me nervous as it was hot and the sun was strong and it was about 10am by this time. ( we hit crater rim at about 9:30am) I just. Wanted to get down as I possible - I was not only concerned about snowbridges melting out – but also traveling under the Cleaver, Bowling Alley and Ingraham Icefall – in the heated weather. I think I rushed my team too much on the summit and I do apologize for that – but I thought we needed to get down. By this time – we see SherpaK, Jay Yvonne, Guniness and Bruce.

We moved fast on the way down and it was damn hot!! Snowballing wasn’t too bad they good thing was if anyone fell – self arrest would have been easy. Thankfully nobody fell. My foot went thru a snowbridge on the way down – but it happened so fast ,, I didn’t even realize until it was done with and I was on my merry way. No biggie right? Pretty scary now.

Notes: This was a tough climb no matter how you slice it. - the 3 people I climbed with were top notch and I will remember you forever and the 12 that I went with – the same. We hauled ass thru the ingraham and rested at the top of cathedral gap and could hear the rocks falling as we went by - strolled into camp muir at about 3pm with Marco and Carol giving us water which we badly needed.

This mountain was tough and I don’t care - anything after Muir was a success and getting home in one piece was a success. Hell – even making it to muir is a huge deal in my opinion. I snuck up to the summit and snuck down – I was fortunate to deal with altitude well. Stroke of luck.

Arm stepped up and took the lead for our group and he did amazing job – huge weight on his shoulder navigating through things. While route is generally straightforward – there are sections that you still have to routefind a little and Arm got us through those spots.


Arm Dani and Terri - your the best and couldn't have done it w/o you

Ed - thanks for making it all happen

Carol and marco- that water at muir was huge and much appreciated and congrats hug amazing.

All others - thanks for making the trip enjoyable and best - fun.

I think I was happiest for sherpaK - he kept saying it was his one and only shot and I was very, very happy that he made it and made it very strong.

To those who doubted us and said we were stupid to try - go eat dirt - with preperation and a level head (and a bit of luck) - anything can be done.

Arm skimom Tmax Guinness and Dax all came down the same night and had to drive 50 miles to tacoma to find a hotel - that sucked - finally in bed at midnight that night.

we might have been a bit lucky - but I know now it takes more than just luck to get up and down this mountain.

Hey Sherpa - pretty good idea - huh??

 

[ClimbHi]

giggy,

Awesome job of writing up the trip. I'll be printing this out and giving it to my friends, but I'll be telling them I wrote it!

Thanks again giggy, for helping with all the group stuff on the mountain and for your sense of humour. There's no doubt we'll be clmbing again together. (Remember Presi. Winter Traverse!!).

Take Care,
ClimbHi

 

[twigeater]

wow, great report, thanks!

 

[SherpaKroto]

Giggy: excellent report! I thought you said you couldn't write You captured what was felt by all of us along the way.

We definitely had our naysayers as we trained for this trip. I appreciate that, as concern for our safety is first and foremost. Giggy is not trying to bash them, just saying that if you have a dream to climb this mountain, go for it, just do it safely. Preparation will get you there, and more than a bit of luck will get you to the top. I was fortunate to be surrounded by a group dedicated to being more concerned with the safety of their climbing partners than with anything else. We were prepared, healthy, focused, and it showed. Our one day climbing school with RMI (we all took other courses separately) was one of the best decisions that we (Guinness) made. We picked up a few pointers to tie off loose ends, but even more important, started working as a team.

We also had many here that went above and beyond in their support and encouragement. One that stands out is Frodo who helped some of us get more confortable on steep ice and snow slopes (what an understatement that was!!!) in the best way: he took us there. His knowledge and honesty really helped at a time when it was sorely needed. I also want to thank all who hiked with us during our training. Your companionship and encouragement made the goal become real.

Huge thanks to Guinness. If he doesn't move way up in all of our esteemation, something is wrong with the world. His superb organizational skills kept us informed, but his calmness under pressure kept us focused. This was a large part of why we were successful. In a lot of ways he did all but carry us up there (I did complain about that one lapse!).

To the Team, I thank all of you. Each one of you contributed in ways that you may never realize to helping me reach what has been a huge life goal for me (if only you knew how huge!). I knew that if I didn't try this year, I likely would never try. Working together as a team to reach this summit is what made it happen.

To Jay and Yvonne, you guys rock! I doubt I could have stood on the summit without you! There was one moment that I was considering stopping, but Jay you turned around and said "Don't think that you are the only one tired!" That's all I needed. (BTW: I have your new avatar). And Yvonne, without your help, I'd still be trying to eat that Snickers bar! Your excellent communication while we were roped helped make us more efficient in climbing.

To Darren: thanks for giving us this forum to help us make our dreams come true!

Knowing that something like this is attainable makes me realize that I still have a few more good years left in me (Shasta? Whitney? Pico de Orizaba? Time to plan!)

And yes Giggy, it was a VERY good idea. For that, I am eternally grateful. Of course, heading off to the Casino was MY idea

To everyone reading this: don't be afraid to dream. With luck, your realities may just exceed them!

 

[alpinista]

Awesome trip report -- and with good reason. You all had an amazing experience, and I'm personally jealous! Whether you summitted or didn't, the scenery must've been something, the comraderie and the physical and mental test of it all.

I'm glad you all came back in one piece, and I'm looking forward to reading more about this adventure and seeing the pix!

 

[dr_wu002]

Amazing! I'm really happy for you guys and hope to see more TR's and pictures and stuff.

This is making it really difficult for me to write my Crawford Path TR from this weekend!

-Dr. Wu

 

[Mark Driscoll]

WOW!!
This makes me want to start training again.


Mark

 

[giggy]

sherpa is right - not to blast the folks who were in fact concered, but I did hear thru the grapvine some rude and mean comments of why and who shouldn't go.

and a very special thanks to RMI for kicking in such a good route.

 

[Sticks]

You guys rock!! Awesome.........
What a great trip report, felt as though I was there climbing with you.
Look forward to seeing some of your pics.

 

[Gris]

Way cool. You guys are "world class"

 

[carole]

Wonderful reports!! I'm glad for you all who made the trip. What fantastic memories you'll relive.

 

[Rik]

Let me push my envy aside to say well done and congrats!

 

[Artex]

Just got done reading the entire report. Wow! What an incredible time you guys had! Thanks for posting the report... you really painted a nice picture with your words.

 

[AntlerPeak]

Congrats Giggy I have been following this adventure since you guys first posted it. I had no idea if you guys would make it or not I suspected many of you would and was rooting for all to do it. When Mother Rainier gets under your skin it is a tenacious hold. I have a friend who lives in Puyallup who says "I don't need to see the mountain everyday, simply knowing it is there is enough."

The highest I ever got was Camp Muir though I never made a summit attempt. St Helens is my highest summit to date.

I viewed some of the pics posted by team members it is amazing how many peaks I could see that I have climbed though and many more that I could name from looking at the photos. Again congrats to all of you guys who went I am sure you will never forget it. After twenty trips out there I still can't get enough of it.

Again congrats to all of you guys.

 

[bubba]

Giggy - great report. I really didn't have any idea of what this meant, so reading your report was perfect! I don't know if I could deal with the massive cravasses and snowbridges... without crawling across them. I'm anxious for pix to (hopefully) ease my mind!! Ed is a wonderfully calm hiking campanion - I know that his organization really pulled your trip together soundly and probably helped in setting up those necessary communication(s) that you and Sherpa both spoke of. We don't usually think of NE hiking as threatening, but having a good partner can be plenty valuable. On your trip -- plenty invaluable as I think you all lived through to tell your tale.

Congrats to all -- proud of you all for pulling this off. Sherpa - enjoy the buzz!

 

[poison ivy]

Awesome report! Sounds like a trip of a lifetime... except that I know you all will have tons more "trips of a lifetime!" I am seething with jealousy... but the reports and pictures give me hope that one day I'll be up to climbing Rainier myself.

Congratulations to all! I look forward to seeing all the pictures and living vicariously though all you guys and gals!

- Ivy

 

[Puma concolor]

Outstanding report, outstanding effort, outstanding all around. A sincere and hardy congratulations to all.

 

[TMax]

Thanks Guy for writing up an amazing trip report. I've been thinking about writing one all day (staying focused at work was nearly impossible today!) and just couldn't come up with the words. You spoke them for me! The entire trip ROCKED and I feel so fortunate to have been placed on the Devil Dogs team of Arm, Skimom, and Giggy...we done good! Thanks for your initial post that brought us all together to do this trip. And I will add my voice to all the others singing the praises of Guinness for his stellar skills in helping to organize, focus, and motivate. Ed, you are an amazing individual. What's next? The VFTT Alaska invasion??

Here's a link to my pics http://community.webshots.com/user/tmax1100 Enjoy!!!