Weekend in the Presi’s - May 9-11

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Tuco

New member
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
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Location
East Hampstead, NH
Warning- Long TR.

I met Wayne at the Pittsfield Snowshoe Race this year, a very good guy and strong athlete who wanted to spend some time up in the Whites. After hearing from him that he wanted to come up for a weekend in early May, I thought about a plan that could have us out for a couple of nights. I set up a plan to have us crossing the Presidential Ridge over a couple of days. Mid summer with a light pack this hasn’t been a problem for me- but May in the Whites means something else. Not that anything encountered was unexpected; I can definitely look back and know planning next time would be different (yeah sure…).

Friday May 8

Hiked up Crawford Path to the Mizpah Cutoff. About an hour in, the monorail started. We put on the microspikes, which worked effectively. Moving up the Mizpah Cutoff, things deteriorated somewhat. There wasn’t an obvious or solid monorail so we started to posthole quite a bit- snow depths still could be seen of two to three feet. It was a short effort to the Mizpah Hut, but the hot conditions and postholing with heavier than usual packs helped build up quite a sweat. We were the only people at Mizpah for the opening night, and our caretaker Gates took good care of us. It was nice to have the place empty, so we spread out and hung our wet clothes everywhere.

Saturday May 9

Early morning check of my fast drying expensive hiking clothes- everything was still wet. Not soaked, but wet. I had other clothing, but had hoped to have more backup later on… We heard the forecast come in- nice early and then showers and T-Storms possible later in the day. We had figured if there was to be rain- we would take the nearest trail down and if need be walk or hitch back to one of our cars. We started up Webster Cliff to Pierce, with the spikes again. Steep pitch and the monorail made for tough slow going. After hitting the first viewpoint, we headed back into the trees with more snow. Less monorail and more postholing. The sun was shining and views were abundant as we topped out on Pierce. In between Pierce and Ike for a while there was more snow and postholing, but finally as the climb moved up we cleared from snow and the trails were clear. A stop on Ike for pictures and soaking in a beautiful morning in the Whites. Washington’s summit was in out and out of the fog at this point, but mostly clear.

We next headed to Monroe and stopped for lunch on the summit. The breeze picked up and it was cooler, but still great views around and warm by White Mountains standards. We went down to Lake of the Clouds and moved towards the running water to refill. We saw a girl fill water and head behind the hut- apparently she/they were tenting right behind the hut. Next, three young guys coming up the Ammo passed by. One had two gallon water jugs tied to his waist. One wore sneaker and jeans; they were in good spirits as they made their way up to the summit. At the summit they told us they were taking the Cog down. After watering up we did the same- the long trudge up Mt Washington- as the summit fogged in and winds picked up. Still not a bad day considering but rather than risk bad weather coming in we took a quick summit shot and headed down. The Trinity Connector and Gulfside trail at this area was a running river- from this point on dry feet were over.

As we headed up Clay, the winds really picked up. We were getting blown off the trail at times- and we surveyed the skies and still didn’t look too bad. If things turned here we would have bailed down the Jewell, but other than the winds it still looked good. In the long run- this might have been the clue of what was coming. As we climbed Jefferson- still the weather looked OK. Clear trails and we topped off around 5:00 or so. Wayne tagged the summit and we prepared to head down. No sooner did we start did the first rumble of thunder start and the rain with it. At this point we had cancelled the thought of heading to Adams and were going to head to the nearest shelter- The Perch. Heading down the Gulfside there was a large snowfield; it was tough to see where the trail was heading in the rain but we fairly easily navigated it. After this, the thunder and lightening picked up so we pulled up behind some large rocks and waited for a few minutes. We then headed across another large snowfield, this one much steeper and in the rain and fog went down beyond as far as the eye could see. I whipped across as the thunder and lightening got closer- Wayne took a careful approach to keep from sliding to the trees below. Finally, with the approach to Edmands Col nearing, it all broke loose- thunder and lightening directly overhead, torrential rain and winds that felt like 40-50mph. At this point we ducked down again as the conditions were unsafe for travel. With all of this, Edmands Col dropped in and out of the fog. After about 30 minutes of these conditions- I put on my winter parka- I was soaked and it was getting chilly. We waited another 30 minutes and still no let up in the rain and wind. Wayne finally suggested we get moving- we wanted to get down and near shelter before dark if possible. We got into Edmands Col- it was hard to see two feet ahead but we made out the trail down to The Perch and Israel Ridge and headed across. Finally, while traversing the path, the rain stopped and views opened up and made travel easier. Water POURED down on the trail- it was more of a river.

We finally headed into the trees and donned headlamps. And then the snow started again. No real monorail, so the postholing started again. We trudged down to the Perch Path and that .1 miles was the toughest of the day. Deep postholing and slipping everywhere. Finally we reached the Perch in the dark- there were 3 people there who slid over. We changed and jumped into our bags- exhausted from the work and events of the day.

Sunday May 10

An early start- we wanted to get down. It was raining and chilly. I didn’t want to go up the steep trail heading east since I had nothing left in my legs, so I decided to head back to Israel Ridge and start down. Longer and less direct; but I had no interest in any upclimbing to start the morning. I am sure that was not a move made with common sense in retrospect.

Down and postholing, this kept up in the rain, until the snow ended and we navigated down the wet ladders and rocks. Eventually, we looped around and came upon the Cascades. The water was flowing fast, so we sat for a few minutes, rested and thought about our plan. There was a little pool of still water before hitting the rapids shooting down from above. There was a large pole next to the water- I believe somebody had used it before to get across so I figured to do the same. I hopped into the above the knee deep water and dashed across, slipping near the end. I dove forward and reached a rock and pulled over. Wayne did a better job of navigating the current with the pole. It wasn’t dangerous like the Thoreau Falls, but that said falling in and sliding into the rocks and getting soaked didn’t sound great either. I was soaked anyhow, and just for good measure, it started to snow.

From here on in we took the Link and then the Lowes Path down. Lower Lowe’s path had a good amount of boot sucking mud, but what a nice gentle piece of trail it is.

This trip had it all, hot sun and sunburn, windburn, torrential rain, snow, mud and fast moving water. I think the rain occurring as we were on the Summit of Jefferson was poor timing, anywhere else and we could have dropped down somewhere before it really got bad. But that’s hiking in the Whites and it all turned out fine……

Pix to follow if the camera still works and I clear out my gear…..
 
Finally, with the approach to Edmands Col nearing, it all broke loose- thunder and lightening directly overhead, torrential rain and winds that felt like 40-50mph. At this point we ducked down again as the conditions were unsafe for travel. With all of this, Edmands Col dropped in and out of the fog. After about 30 minutes of these conditions- I put on my winter parka- I was soaked and it was getting chilly. We waited another 30 minutes and still no let up in the rain and wind. Wayne finally suggested we get moving- we wanted to get down and near shelter before dark if possible. We got into Edmands Col- it was hard to see two feet ahead but we made out the trail down to The Perch and Israel Ridge and headed across. Finally, while traversing the path, the rain stopped and views opened up and made travel easier. Water POURED down on the trail- it was more of a river.

Wow...glad you made it out okay -- when the storms hit on Saturday, I wondered if anyone was up on any of the peaks.

We got stuck last September in similar fast-moving thunderstorm conditions (no snow, though) on Pierce -- and could see lightning strikes on Eisenhower. Pretty scary...as the skies opened in torrents we made it down the Crawford Path and headed for Mizpah Hut to wait out the storm.

Every trail was gushing river; there was no way to avoid it.

I was amazed at how quickly the large volume of water drained OFF the trails once the rain stopped a half-hour later.

Glad you're safe...
 
Tuco -

It was such a great story, I just had to read it a second time :cool:

Yes, you got cold and soaked, endured an awful electrical storm above treeline, had poor visiibility, postholed beyond belief and braved a harrowing stream crossing. On the other hand, you will probably look back and this will become one of your most memorable hikes.

Great TR. Can't wait to see the photos.

Marty
 
Sounds like you guys had quite an experience. I know you had prepared/planned well and it paid off for you. You packed in several years of experience in a single trip. It was a trip for the memory books.

I am glad you guys stayed safe. I will be looking forward to all of the detail the next time we hike.

Thanks for the trail report.
 
Some pix here. http://tuco.smugmug.com/gallery/8180307_o67oZ#P-1-20 My camera is shot, I didn't get it out of the rain fast enough and as of now no new pictures are happening, as you can see the last three shots were damaged. I wish I had taken some shots post Mt Washington to get a look at the change on conditions, but at that time I was focusing on the hike.

Thanks all for the words- I can see how things can go wrong quickly and get a better sense of understanding when I hear things go wrong. Clearly all I have learned from my co-hikers and this site had me prepared to carry what I needed- we saw plenty of people that day who we worried about....

PS- the dates should have been May 8-10!
 
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Wow, great report. Yeah the weather this weekend was pretty wild, especially up there. Glad you made it out.
 
Great TR, crumby conditions!

I forgot about your trip to Presi's. Sounds like you experienced some challenging conditions. We were doing trailwork at Cardigan last weekend. Our blowdown crew passed over summit of Firescrew under threatening skies. Luckily for us the thunderstorms didn't hit until right in middle of dinner. We were in process of thanking mother nature for holding off until dinner to cut loose when the power went out and stayed out for 18 hours. I was mighty glad to be observing this storm from the comfort of the lodge.
 
So this is a new friend of yours...Has he returned any of your calls lately :eek:
 
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