A week in the Catskills

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audrey

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MA. Avatar: Pat,Audrey,& Leo on N Moat
Many thanks to everyone who gave me their recommendations last spring on the best hikes in the Catskills. Pat, Marge, and I rented a place in the shadow of Panther Mountain. Most of the week had tremendous weather, and we enjoyed several 3500 footers: Balsam Lake Mt, Plateau, the three Blackheads, Peekamoose, and Table. We met a family of 4 on Balsam Lake and one person on Peekamoose. That was it!

We were very lucky to meet firefighter/volunteer Rich Roller on Balsam Lake and he spent time showing us around and telling stories of bears, fires, porcupines, and more. We got to see pictures of our own Laurie at the age of 12 or so with her Dad on the mountain. Rich's tales of local aggressive bears made me reconsider going in to see the bog, given how inquisitive our dog Genie is. We returned via a beautiful loop, through wet meadows of flowers.

The Blackheads were the best hike of the week, but golly, why aren't the summits marked? All week long we were guessing. On Thomas Cole we tramped around a bit on a section offtrail that looked a bit higher. The best view was from Black Dome, of the Plateau-Sugarloaf-etc. range.

Descending Peekamoose, Marge and Genie were ahead, and we heard a tremendous crashing in the woods nearby. We heard Marge call, "Bear!" Genie had started into the woods after a noise and apparently spooked a bear which took off in the other direction. Genie then came trotting back to Marge apparently unaware that a second bear was furiously sliding down a tree behind her, and it too took off with much hullabaloo. I like to think that Genie wisely considered them to be too big to chase or play with. She is much too inquisitive, as we found out the next day on a hike to Ashokan High Point.

She took off into the woods after a porcupine, Pat in hot pursuit. Even when it let go its artillery into her snout and climbed a tree, she was still dancing around barking. You have to imagine the scenario: a calm little porky clinging to a tree about 8 feet up, a dog with full white beard demanding that it come down and face the music, and poor Pat trying to catch Genie. The whole thing took place on a steep slope, the forest duff was soft and deep, and Pat was totally out of breath and trying to stay on his feet and not somersault down the hill.

She finally gave up and ran back to the trail, wagging her tail furiously for Marge. I got her in a headlock and pulled out at least 15 quills. The ones in the nose were fairly deep and upset her a bit. Many many many thanks to Dugan and others who recently listed pliers as necessary equipment, from now on a permanent part of my gear.

We spent some time driving around the local hamlets - a bit surprised by the down-and-out look of some, such a shame when the backdrop is so magnificent. Fleischmann's gave us a chuckle, with its fancy sign promoting itself as a 4-season resort. Oh, and the Peekamoose restaurant in Big Indian was rather expensive but really good: homemade spearmint ice-cream, wow!
 
Sounds like a good time! You'll get used to Catskills hiking, you know when you're at the peak when you start descending the other side!

The plateau-Sugarloaf range is known as the Devil's Path, being somewhat central to the catskills, you can see those peaks from almost everywhere, especially plateau. It's probably one I use a lot to get a bearing to everything else.

Seems like Porcupines (and nettles) like the catskills alot, I never see evidence elsewhere of them, not in the Adirondacks or the Shawangunks. Likewise, we don't seem to get pine martins in the catskills like points north.

There has been moose sightings though and coyotes and red fox. (Saw one the other day near Balsam Lake on a road though). I also met Rich on Balsam Lake too. Nice guy...

For an interesting read on the firetowers, I'd recommend Martin Podskoch (sp?) book on "firetowers in the catskills" There is a picture of Laurie and her father Larry in there... :)

For restaurants, did you check out Brios in Phoenicia? Good brick oven pizza as well as The Last Chance in Tannersville.

Jay

Jay
 
Nice report. Glad you enjoyed the Cats, and I hope Genie won't have bad memories. Our porkies are generally more ornery than our bruins. I have yet to encounter an aggressive bear in the Catskill back-country, and I have seen many. Though I suppose with a lean-to and other popular campsites nearby, perhaps Balsam Lake Mt might develop a problem. The porkies think they own several of the lean-tos which they also consume for midnight snacks. Mid-week the wildlife encounters are more frequent than hiker encounters as you found.

Except for summits at trail junctions, with trailless canisters, or fire towers, the only Catskill summit with a sign is Westkill. I don't know why we don't have more signs on the summits of trail peaks. The summits tend to be flat and rounded which can make summit determination and canister searching a challenge at times. Lately the governing body (DEC) has been rather strict on wilderness interpretation, even removing some of the pipes from springs. No doubt we would need to lobby for signs and have it written into the management plans.
 
Audrey and Pat - I just read this report to Lian. We are both sorry about Genie and glad she did not get a serious injury with her porkie encounter. Great TR. I have to check out the Catskills again sometime. It's been since the early 80's since I have been there.

We look forward to seeing you again at Mooselook, if not before. BTW, we found your place on the lake yesterday, while taking a boat ride. It is a quick 4 mile cruise. Maybe we can take you for a nice boat ride next year!

Best regards,
Marty, Lauren and Lian
 
You may think it's harmless that your dog chases wildlife, but the wildlife doesn't think so. It's considered good trail etiquette to hike with your dog on a leash.
 
Wow Audrey, sounds like you all had a good trip. Poor Genie, I hope she's okay and not too sore.

Nice trip report. Hope to hike with you soon.

donna
 
Welcome to the Cats! Laurie's dad built the current cabin, and we are going to be there this weekend, doing the same job Rich does.

I agree that knowing when the summit has been reached is sometimes difficult. I actually missed one the first time around on Table. When I later went up the other side of the mountain, the summit did not look familiar! :eek:

The 3500 Club does not require you to find the true summit, just to give it your best effort, including canistered peaks. I also missed one canister in my first attempt (Leavitt), but went back later and got it with the club.
 
Pete_Hickey said:
My kid, swho has spent something like 40 nights sleeping inthe catskills the past two summers, frequently has problems with them. Chewed up things usually, but one walked away with one of his sandals one night.
Saw him and friends on Peekamoose a few weeks back and left all the goodies I had(candybars etc.) on their packs, hope they got them. They do a great job.
 
Tom, that's a beautiful cabin. I can see why you like it up there so much. Take some pictures of the bog I didn't see, OK?

Jay, we missed you by a day, according to the register. Rich mentioned seeing you at the beginning and end of your bushwhack.

Marty, we are definitely on for a ride on Mooselook!

Trudy, I won't debate your point because arguing over dog rights shuts down VFTT threads faster than anything else. I agree that chasing wildlife is not a good thing (keeps the critters sharp, though! ;) ). Leashing is by no means a universal etiquette, and you will find members here who are on both sides of the coin.

The porky got the upper hand as I expected it would, and a little extra revenge: we pulled a quill out of one of Genie's paws tonight after she started limping.
 
Jay H said:
Seems like Porcupines (and nettles) like the catskills alot, I never see evidence elsewhere of them, not in the Adirondacks or the Shawangunks.

I can vouch for the presence of porcupines in the Shawangunks. I actually saw a little one just yesterday right next to Undercliff Carriageway. Cute little critter. I also saw one once about a year ago on Awosting Lake Carriageway. I read somewhere that the only thing that can kill a porky is a fischer cat. Probably not enough fischers in the Catskills to really control the porky population, although I believe DEC reintroduced them for just that reason. I wonder if perhaps their population is on the rise in the Gunks as well. I imagine up in the ADKs there is enough predation and competition to keep the porcupine numbers down.

Matt
 
mcorsar said:
I can vouch for the presence of porcupines in the Shawangunks. I actually saw a little one just yesterday right next to Undercliff Carriageway. Cute little critter. I also saw one once about a year ago on Awosting Lake Carriageway. I read somewhere that the only thing that can kill a porky is a fischer cat. Probably not enough fischers in the Catskills to really control the porky population, although I believe DEC reintroduced them for just that reason. I wonder if perhaps their population is on the rise in the Gunks as well. I imagine up in the ADKs there is enough predation and competition to keep the porcupine numbers down.

Matt

We followed one for quite a way down the trail, near Blackhead Mt. It was trying to get away from us, and we were tired, so the net result was we were going at about the same speed. They're not all that slow, really. Finally it figured out it could escape if it left the trail.
 
Audrey, perhaps it was for the better, saturday was pretty rainy and wet, though not really to Balsam Lake, the trail between Balsam Lake firetower and Alder lake was very wet.

Guinness poked a porky with a trekking pole at the Batavia Kill leanto near Blackhead Mt... Never seen a porky run so fast!

Jay
 
Jay H said:
Guinness poked a porky with a trekking pole at the Batavia Kill leanto near Blackhead Mt... Never seen a porky run so fast!
It seems like that area is porky-central! I've seen a lot there myself over the years. If you get up really early, you are more likely to see them.
 
Nice report Audrey and Pat....I was lucky to see and get a pic of a porky this past spring....also I met and hiked out with that fireman last November (after an overnight with a few VFTT'ers I think it was doubletop)...my headlight was awful and his was excellent...he mentioned to me about why not to solo hike for certain reasons...
 
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