lx93 said:
Would you say that Class 4 is hard enough that basic technical gear would be necessary?
There are a variety of definitions for the classes--all are defined by consensus and are judgement calls. They may also vary by region or group. And the defs are fuzzy so that arguing about a difficulty of 4.9 vs 5.0 may be pointless...
From Freedom of the Hills (7th ed):
* Class 1: Hiking
* Class 2: Simple scrambing, with possible occasional use of the hands
* Class 3: Scrambing; a rope might be carried
* Class 4: Simple climbing, often with exposure. A rope is often used. A fall on Class-4 rock could be fatal. Typically, natural protection can be easily found.
* Class 5: Where rock climbing begins in earnest. Climbing involves the use of a rope, belaying, and protection (natural or artificial) to protect the leader from a long fall.
Another set of defs that I have seen is (my phrasing):
* Class 3: Scrambing, requires use of hands, rope not required.
* Class 4: Scrambling, requires use of hands. A fall could result in serious injury or death. Rope required: running belays* used, no fixed belays*.
* Class 5: Rock climbing, fixed belays used.
The above definitions can be used to describe not only the difficulty of the route, but the method used to travel it as in: "he 3rd classed the route".
Remember, too, that some people climb 5.10+ (ie difficult rock climbs) without a rope, so technically one could talk about 3rd classing a 5.10+ climb. (Actually, it is usually called a free solo.)
In practice, the methods that a group of climbers use will depend upon the skills of the group members (and the conditions)--one might belay 3rd class terrain for beginners or not belay experts on 4th or easy 5th class terrain.
So, for 4th class (rock) terrain for less than expert climbers, a 120 ft of 9mm rope, a few carabiners, and a few slings might be appropriate. On ice/snow a few ice screws and/or pickets might be carried. Experts can decide their own risk vs equipment trade-offs.
On 3rd class terrain with beginners/klutzes, it might be worth bringing 50-120ft of 9mm rope. (I have been in parties where we have done this.)
FWIW, a signifcant number of the greats die on 4th class terrain...
* def: fixed belay: The (stationary) belayer is anchored and controls the rope to the climber. The rope may go though intermediate points of protection (anchored carabiners clipped around the rope--the rope can slide freely though these carabiners).
* def: running belay: Anchors are placed, carabiners are attached, and clipped around the rope. The rope can slide freely though the carabiners--both climbers can move simultaneously.
Doug
PS: my opinions for your list:
B) Chimney on the Knife's Edge in Kathadin
(I presume you mean the short steep section of trail between Chimney Notch and Chimney Peak--the Chimney proper is the gully leading down toward Chimney Pond (a climb in its own right).) 2nd or 3rd. (I have belayed it in winter (mixed rock and ice/snow) and free soloed in summer.)
C) Descent/Ascent from/to S. Twin to/from Galehead Hut
1st or 2nd--its just a bit of trail.
E) Ascending the Hancocks (the really steep parts)
1st or 2nd--its just a bit of trail.
F) Mini-chimney immediately between Garfield's summit & the Garfield Trail
1st or 2nd.
And let me add:
* Dudley Tr on Katahdin: 3rd--sustained boulder climbing requiring frequent use of hands
* Huntington Tr (the steep slab part): 3rd
* Tripyramid N Slide: 3rd
* Tripyramid S slide: 2nd
* Oceola chimney: 3rd (would be easy 5th if sustained) Actually, hardly worth rating because it is so short...