Osceola’s Attempt – Big Learning Experience – 2/25/2006

[sapblatt]

With many mixed feelings a few weeks ago I began planning what would be my last hike in the White’s for at least a few months. A baby is coming in less than a month and I will be out of commission for awhile. After my trials and tribulations last May (10 4ks) on rotting snow I am welcoming these muddy months off. This last hike was going to be many different things, but in the end I decided to do something that two of my friends (LittleBear and Rols) needed, the Osceola’s (I need about 43 winter peaks, so I do not care where I go) and LarryD also wanted to come along as he pointed out that I always pick hikes that he has done before and did not like!

Because Rols and I are extreme morning people and LittleBear needed to be back south early we met at the Greeley Ponds Trailhead off of the Kanc at 6:15am. We quickly suited up (too damn cold to stand around for long – about 5-10 degrees) and headed out around 6:35. We made very good time to the junction with the Osceola Trail and we all wore snowshoes as there was a small amount of light powder over a mixed bag of ice and snow. The lower sections of this trail are pretty gentle, but you keep thinking that this trail is only 1.5 miles to East Osceola and there is around 1800-2000 feet up – it is going to get you sooner or later.

We kept moving over the trail at a good pace – only a few minor blowdowns to deal with. We were all rather amazed at how well the trail is blazed and that it had been traveled fairly recently. Our snowshoes helped to further pack the trail down. After awhile LittleBear and LarryD opted to switch to crampons as it was getting slicker and steeper. Rols and I were happy with the MSR Denalis and stuck with them – I would soon regret this decision.

Eventually we got to the tricky section before the slide. There is a spot where it is pretty steep and there was a lot of ice flowing over the rocks – and of course it was covered with light powder and it was not compressed at all. I went up first and found that the left hand side, although steeper was easier to deal with because there was a little less ice and there were trees to hold on to. The MSR’s still handled this area OK – at least on the left side – crampons would have been the better choice.

OK – now we are to the spot that I had been thinking about all week – the slide. I would guess that this area is about 100 feet across. It starts out rather gently and then slowly starts up and then the last 20-25 feet are more up. The area where you walk is higher on the right than the left which makes it easier to slip and fall away on the down slope. Somehow, I was first – still with my snowshoes on. I started out over the slide which I am guessing had an inch or two of ice over the rock then about 10 inches of the lightest, fluffiest, least compacted snow you have ever seen on it. Right about now, I slipped and fell and was able to stop myself with my trekking poles. Stupid me – my crampons are in my pack, and my ice axe is on my pack…the MSRs had reached their limit and I should have been using the axe to test the ground. Eventually, Rols caught up to me and helped me get across the last few yards. Then we carried on as LittleBear and LarryD came across on crampons, which was better. A little beyond the slide I was really wanting to change to crampons, but I was uncomfortable with the stability of the snow and the available space so I just sat in a snow bank and hugged a tree. We all decided it would be better to turn around as it took us a long time to get across the slide. Rols suggested belaying us across the slide. Everyone was in agreement as we knew it was taking us too long. Rols set up the rope while I contemplated how damn cold I was and got generally bitchy. We safely got back across and then Rols self belayed. Some other hikers were also going across…crampons were the key. After getting across, LittleBear noticed I was freakin’ freezing! She poured me two cups of much needed hot chocolate and I finally got my crampons on. I switched hats and gloves (warmer and drier) and we began our descent from the slide area. A few minutes after starting I had warmed up quite a bit and were moving down quickly. We had another quick equipment change break at the Greeley Junction and then finished the last 1.3 miles back to the cars by about 1:30. LarryD came through with four much needed Tuckerman Ales!

Lessons learned by me – the winter neophyte!

1. Think your equipment through ahead of time…getting to a spot where you want to change gear and cannot is no fun. It should have been a little obvious that crampons would be needed across the slide. Also, as good as snowshoes like the MSRs are, they are not great for all conditions – I kind of bought into that idea.

2. The same thing goes for clothing – I should have put on more layers before the slide. It never occurred to me that we could have spent over an hour trying to get across and back there – with temps near 5 degrees this is a long time to be standing around with a fleece jacket on. Next time, I will over do it…it would be better to have crampons on and not need them – it would have been better to have a warmer jacket on and then take it off…

3. Lastly…man, my ice axe looks so freakin’ cool…but that is a pretty lame piece of equipment to have with you when you are pretty clueless what to do with it…thank you Rols for getting me started with it and for knowing enough to get us out in one piece!

A great hike, with great friends. As I depart on my second and final child rearing hiatus (I am practically crying right now ) I can say I cannot wait to hike with all of you again real soon! Is it June yet?

 

[Mike P.]

Thanks for sharing, FWIW, when you get to Wildcat in winter, depending on conditions, you may find that slide also is easier & better in crampons.

Glad your okay. That child rearing thing did get me another day hiking, the annual this is better than a tie hike. I go on Saturday & am home for Sunday. This year the Pound the Presi traverse is that day so I'm training for that.

Somehow my wife going to a Spa on Mother's Day shows she is way smarter than I am.

 

[Double Bow]

Mike,

It sounds like this trip was a very special one. Though you may not have gotten the peaks, you learned a lot and were able to enjoy the company of friends. That's pretty special. So is becoming a father again. Congrats, once again my friend. We'll miss you out on the trails the next few months but when it's time to come back, the air will be warm, the trees will be green, the sun will be shining, and we'll be waiting for you.

Take care,
DB

 

[MrAmeche]

Mike - the same thing happened to me about a month ago at the same slide. I didn't have the right gear, and I almost pushed myself too far. Glad you made it out okay. And hot chocolate always helps.

I'm looking forward to June as well... and congrats again on the new baby!

 

[poison ivy]

Glad you got across that slide (and back) okay!! The mountains will still be there when you're ready to return to them... and congrats in advance on the soon-to-be new arrival!

- Ivy

 

[McRat]

Hang in there, Mike. The day I went I turned back before getting the main peak. At least you got a good walk in, peaks are optional.

Good luck with the new arrival. Drop me a line if you get time for some local 'maintenance hikes'.

For a while, I had three under the age of four... that's when I started night hiking the 'fells. A few hours here and there isn't the same as the 'Whites... but it's a great break.

 

[Tom & Atticus]

This summer I found that same route to be my least favorite route in the Whites. The slide takes hold of my fear of heights and does a number on it. This winter, I found the same route to be my least favorite route once again and I had crampons on.

It may be one of the shorter (mileage wise) hikes in the 4,000-footers but that doesn't mean it is easier.

Good lessons learned. I continue to learn them this winter on nearly every hike.

And for what it is worth Mike, congrats on the baby and just think how much fun it will be to introduce your children to these wonderful mountains some day.

Best,
Tom

 

[slowandsteady]

Thanks for your trip report - I'm new to the winter 4Ks and have learned considerably from postings like yours and others on this board. Seems there were a number of groups that didn't make their goal this past weekend but everyone got out anyway!

just think how much fun it will be to introduce your children to these wonderful mountains some day.

Ditto! You'll have just as much fun when you re-hike the same trails with your children and have all of those great stories to tell them along the way.

Best of luck with the new baby.

 

[giggy]

Mike - I learn something new each time I go out and it never stops. thats what its all about

the good thing is it sounds like you had a decent group that could adapt to a "situation" and make it all good. I have never been on this slide, but sat was a tough day weather wise , when its that cold I find little things go wrong like having a glove off too long can snowball the day downhill fast.

 

[dr_wu002]

I agree with Giggy

Definite on the hands freezing up etc. can definitely contribute to a bad state of mind!

Turning around if fine, especially if you don't feel comfortable. Frodo and I did Willey, Field and Tom after a rain storm and we were going to walk through Zealand Notch. When we were going down the A-Z Trail, a little feeder stream had grown (after the rain) into a raging monster and washed out, turning a large area into one turbulent hell-hole. We just kind of looked at it ( -- like that) and turned around and went back. Neither of us wanted to get into that mess.

Nice trip report. Did you consider visiting Greeely Ponds!??!? You could have gone ice skating!!

-Dr. Wu

 

[marty]

Mike - after your e-mail to me yesterday, I have been eagerly awaiting your Trip Report, not knowing exactly what to expect. This TR exceeded my wildest expectations. It was clearly written from the heart and provides invaluable lessons to all us winter neophytes. One just never knows what the next hike will bring, especially in the winter....
Thanks so much for sharing this with all of us. Regards, Marty

 

[SAR-EMT40]

how damn cold I was and got generally bitchy. We safely got back across and then Rols self belayed. LittleBear noticed I was freakin’ freezing! She poured me two cups of much needed hot chocolate and I finally got my crampons on. I switched hats and gloves (warmer and drier) and we began our descent from the slide area.

I apologize ahead of time if this offends anyone but, lets look at this together.

Mental status change i.e. becomes bitchy, not his normal state.

Thought that crampons were better but didn't do anything about it. i.e laziness or something more? Were you vasoconstricted and had a loss of fine motor control? Were you still shivering?

LittleBear noticed I was freakin’ freezing! i.e. Not able to recognize how much trouble he was having by himself without someone else telling him. What did LittleBear notice? Your shivering or something more?

After the hot chocolate made your brain work better you then decided to change into warmer clothes and put crampons on.


Anyone want to guess what was happening?




The next time you see LittleBear kiss her feet. She may have actually saved your life.

Hypothermia happens that insidiously. I wasn't there but if all the players go over this in their mind I would appreciate them letting everyone know if this is correct. Not for me. But so far no one has mentioned this and this is classic first/second stage hypothermic behavior that every winter hiker/camper should recognize.

Sapblatt, please don't take this as a personal attack. It is anything but. This can happen to anyone and almost always needs someone else to point it out to them. Again, you were probably very fortunate that LittleBear was there.

I am very happy that this turned out well as I consider you one of my online buddies and enjoy reading you and Rols exploits.

Keith

 

[sapblatt]

Thank you

Keith -
Absolutely no offense taken...I know what you are saying and I agree with you. I was not shivering - I did a little, but then when I stood up it went away. I was concerned about hypothermia but I was also a lot more concerned about taking my pack off and slipping from where I was and taking Kris (LittleBear) and LarryD out with my slide - which would have pushed them into the slide - NOT GOOD.
I was kind of weighing in my head the risk of slipping versus how long it would be until I could warm up. The real smart thing to have done would have been to put the damn jacket on and the crampons before going across the slide. You are so right - you can get cold to a dangerous point in a matter of minutes...hiking uphill and sweating and standing around are very different activities.
I am thankful that I hike with people that are knowledgable and that look out for each other - we have helped each other in the past as well.
And I am thankful for the community hear that shares valuable information...
More than anything - I am glad that my 1000th post was something interesting like this and not a dissertation on how to "go" in the woods.

 

[king tut]

Very nice trip report. Best of luck w/ the new arrival. Hopefully you can get your kids into the wilderness world. I am thankful that my parents got me into hiking and the outdoors at an early age. They did it by bribing me with M & M's, that was the only way i would have made it to Katahdin or other places. Just an idea. I'll eagerly await the summer and fall when you are able to get back out and post some more trip reports.

 

[Tuco]

Mike-

I consider every time I am out there an experience. Some of them better than others, but all different experiences. Sound like you had quite an experience yourself, and you had one of the best pieces of hiking equipment with you, good partners. Sometimes the experiences are good for learning, others just to enhance the memory. Sounds like this one was both.

Good luck on the upcoming BIG experience. This will give you another thing to think of when hiking and another motivation to get yourself home.

We’ll see you in June.

 

[LittleBear]

Hypothermia - been there, done that

Keith, you are so right. Hypothermia is very insidious. I experienced hypothermia on a Baxter trip when it was VERY cold (below zero) and the wind was howling and even thought the sun was bright it was not the best of conditions. My problem is that I stopped eating and drinking (too much of a hassle and my water was so COLD it hurt trying to drink it). I just wanted to get to the bunk house and be done with it. I didn't realize what was happening until afterwards. I do remember thinking that I should change out of my sweaty clothes and into something warmer but I just couldn't fathom how I was going to unpack my sled and get my gear inside. I was very lucky that the other folks I was with recognized what was going on.

Since then, I have been much more aware of what is happening - not only to me but to the folks I am hiking with. Mike wasn't particularly "bitchy" as he put it, but he had been sitting in the snow for quite some time as we talked over our options and then decided to turn around. At that point, Paul wanted to make sure we would be safe (this is good), so that by the time we had all crossed back over the slide we had been there approximately one hour and forty minutes. I was feeling okay, but knew that hot chocolate and food would make me feel better. Mike was having a hard time putting on his crampons and I KNEW he needed some hot liquid and warmer clothing. I kept insisting that everyone eat something and drink (either water or hot chocolate).

It's interesting that I always carry a thermos of hot chocolate with me when I hike in the winter and I almost always come home with more than half of it left. Saturday - it was all gone by the end of our hike. Sometimes I think about leaving it behind, since it is added weight. After Saturday, it will always be a part of my winter gear.

It was a great day to get out and hike and to hike with some really good people who were very willing to change plans when things got a bit "dicey." These are the kind of folks I want to hike with. Not ones who want to press on regardless of conditions, turnaround times, or general unease.

 

[DougPaul]

There is certainly a zone of being chilled that IMO, doesn't quite yet qualify as hypothermia. One can still have adequate core temp with arms and hands (and perhaps feet) chilled to the point where it is difficult to manipulate things. Not particularly pleasant, but still a warning.

Sounds like sapblatt might have been in this zone.

Obviously, inability to manipulate one's gear can be serious (eg difficulty getting out and putting on more insulation) and if one chills farther it can become full hypothermia.


On the issue of anticipating gear needs:
The best time to put on crampons, snowshoes, or the rope is before you need them. Sometimes easier said than done--keep your eye on what is ahead and try to pre-guess as best as you can. (I once saw a guy wait to long to put on his crampons and break his ankle in Huntington Ravine--he was stretching to get to that safe rock where he could put his crampons on and fell...)

Another aspect is overall conservation of energy and time--even though one can struggle past several spots without a particular traction aid, does it make sense to just put them on and be done with it? Or if you know that you will need them later, does it make sense to put them on now? It won't take any more time now than later.

Doug

 

[LarryD]

Mike's report was terrific, aand accurate. I personally learned a couple of valuable lessons on this trip:

1. Sometimes better gear can get you into more trouble. Mike and Rols had MSR snowshoes, which were much more suitable for grabbing into the ice and snow on the lower stretches. Little Bear and I had more traditional snowshoes, and determined much earlier in the hike that these were not going to serve us well once we hit the steeper sections. As a result we switched to crampons early on. Mike and Rols stuck with their MSR's and, as Mike's report indicates, by the time it was obvious that they were not sufficient they were already on the slide and not in a good position to change to crampons. Little Bear and I had a (relatively) easier time crossing the slide in our crampons.

About an hour into the hike, I was mentally planning where to buy a pair of MSR's because I was envious of how well they worked for Mike and Rols. Now I am not that anxious to pick up a pair.


2. There is no substitute, especially in the winter, for sound group decision-making. Previously I had done most of my winter hikes solo, but I now have seen an example of how having others around can help assess a situation and assure that the right decision is made. All four of us talked the situation out and agreed on when to turn around. Given our fatigue, and the long period in which we were not moving near the slide, this was undoubtedly the right decision. Of course, it does take the right people for this group dynamic to work.

3. Finally, no matter the weather, the conditions, or the "success" of the hike, a cold Tuckerman's goes down well back at the car.

Larry

 

[DougPaul]

About an hour into the hike, I was mentally planning where to buy a pair of MSR's because I was envious of how well they worked for Mike and Rols. Now I am not that anxious to pick up a pair.

Get the MSRs--their traction can be very useful in a number of situations.

But no matter what you use, be aware of its limitations and if those limtations are exceeded, change to something more suitable, try a new route, or turn back.

Doug

 

[Rols]

Mike, as always a great trail report. It was a trip, like all our trips together, that I was very happy to be able to share. Hiking with you there is always the feeling of team. On the many hikes together the journey was always extra special.....good times and tougher times, the trail, the journey, hot days and cold, planning trips all were great. Thanks for all of that and I look forward to the next time we take the trail together.