Request for Maine Info

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oswegatchie

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My wife and I spent two weeks in Maine every June from 1974 through 1982, but have not been able to return since. We have fond memories of Acadia National Park, Baxter and the Moosehead Lake area. We shared these memories with our daughter, and she and her future husband have decided to honeymoon in the Pine Tree State after their wedding this June. (I warned her about the blackflies!). She asked me for recommendations, but after a twenty five year absence, I am appealing to this forum for help.

They are interested principally in day hiking activities, particularly to places with significant natural history appeal. In addition to specific recommendations, can anyone suggest guidebooks that will help them?

When we visited Acadia, we stayed at the National Park Service campground. Can anyone suggest alternatives? Which of the various guide books available is the most useful for info on hiking, as well as other activities?

At Moosehead Lake, they will be staying at Lily Bay State Park. Any ideas for interesting day hikes in the area? We never had any difficulties entering Baxter to go dayhiking in the '70s; I gather things have changed. Is it likely that they'll be able to gain access in mid June? Any strategies that would
help?

Suggestions about other areas, like Rangeley, would also be appreciated.
Thanks in advance for your input.
 
oswegatchie said:
Suggestions about other areas, like Rangeley, would also be appreciated.
Thanks in advance for your input.

I've only hiked in Rangeley once, but Saddleback and the Horn are a tremendous hike - I chose the quick ascent via the ski area (this choice may not be as peaceful this summer as it was last, due to the planned construction), and then did the ridge from Saddleback to the Horn and back. There is a significant portion of above treeline hiking and the views are phenominal.
 
Rangeley Area

We had a group that hiked out of the Eustis area last summer and bagged 10 of the 4ks that are near there.. As per Rocket...Horn and Saddleback an impressive ridgeline and easily accessable from the ski area..Crockers and Reddington a long and somewhat interesting day trip with walks along the Caribou Valley Road on the way out pretty nice as we caught a beautiful day ..lots of blue sky, flowers, wild berries along the way..We also did Spaulding and Sugarloaf..up the AT..reverse tracks and then down the ski area...Abe is a great ridgeline..but our favorite was certainly Avery Peak with magnificent views up and down Flagstaff Lake..a memorable hike though quite a steep climb up a never ending staircase....

enjoy
 
I recommend the Sugarloaf area......several opportunities for day hikes or overnighters on a few 4k footers, including Avery, West (on the Bigelow range), the Crockers, Sugarloaf and Redington as well as several lower elevation mountains, such as Little Bigelow, Burnt Hill, Cranberry peak and the North and South Horns. IMO, the views from the the Bigelow range and Sugarloaf are unbeatable...on a clear day you can see Washington then turn your head and you can see Katahdin. Since it's their honeymoon, they could spoil themselves by using the Sugarloaf Hotel as their base camp.

The Maine AMC book has all the hiking info you'll need.
 
The blackflies near the coast should be changing to mosquitoes around that time, but inland they'll be atrocious.

Near Moosehead, Kineo is a nice dayhike, right smack in the middle of the lake. The trail goes from the village to Hardscrabble and back, and there is a detour to where the old firetower used to sit on the top. There is a launch that can take you there from the public landing just below where Whitten's store used to be in Rockwood. The mountain is all flint, and the views from it are incredible since it's surrounded by water.

They could also visit the B52 crash site near Greenville, it's an easy hike. If they really wanted to get ambitious, the ruins of the German Concentration camps are still at the north end of the lake near Seboomook. I don't know if the trails are still there or not, but I remember seeing them many years ago. Not many people know there were concentration camps in Maine. Then there's Ripogenus Dam off the Golden Road, complete with some short walking trails along the rim...very scenic. Or the old steam trains that are a nice walk, although with the blackflies, it may not be.

For Acadia, an alternative to Blackwoods (which is where I think you stayed), is Somes Sound. There are a few others you might check out as well. I'd highly recommend bringing or renting some bikes while there, the carriage trails are so much fun.

If they want something more rural, McClellan Park in Milbridge is the ticket. It's a campsite run by the town, and very few people know it's there. What's sweet about it is that you're camping like 100 yards from the ocean, where you can sit and enjoy the coastal views without hundreds of people around. Wake to the sounds of lobster boats going about their business and let the waves lull you into a peaceful mood. Very relaxing and not too far from Acadia. There is also more to see and do while there.

The midcoast area of Maine will also be in full bloom, with all the forts and scenic accoutrement's as well. There are TONS of scenic trails around now with all the Land Trust conservation easements in the area, virtually every small town has some. Popham Beach is a nice place to visit on a warm day. Don't miss the State museum, it is chock full or nice exhibits on the history of Maine.
 
Lodging near Saddleback/Sugarloaf

The Tranquility Lodge (just north of Stratton, Maine) is within 1/2 hour of both Saddleback and Sugarloaf. I always thought it would be a romantic spot for a honeymoon, and it's close to the AT and other hiking opportunities.
 
Two natural history guides to bring along:

1. AMC's Field Guide to New England Alpine Summits (Slack and Bell) is a pretty good generalist alpine flower and ecosystem guide.
2. Audubon's Field Guide to New England is another generalist guide which will fill them in to what they find in the valleys and in the rivers.

Hiking Guides to bring:

1. AMC Maine Mountain Guide (good all around if you just want one guide)
2. Guide to Baxter State Park and Katahdin (Stephen Clark)
3. Acadia: the Complete Guide (James Kaiser)

May I suggest:

1. Start in Rangeley, hike Saddleback and Horn, noting views to the north
2. Head to Stratton/Kingsfield, do Bigelows loop, staying a night at Horns Pond lean-to if they don't want to do the 15-mile loop in a day. Note views back to Saddleback
3. Head across state to MDI for a few days at Acadia. Skip the mediocre and stay at a bed and breakfast (this is a honeymoon!). There are tons to choose from. If you want specific recommendations, just ask. Hikes that are way worthwhile and come to mind are: Bubbles, Sargent, or a very fine hike starting at Jordan Pond, over Pemetic, up South Ridge Trail to Cadillac, drop down to Dorr, cross the road, hike Champlain and head down Beehive to Sand Beech. Then they can take the Island Explorer bus back to their car. It's an awesome trip with unbeatable views! Then soak in hot tub back at B&B and head out to dinner at Cafe this Way (Bar Harbor) or Fiddler's Green in Southwest Harbor.
4. Head up to Baxter (make reservations now!!!). Go to north end of park FIRST, stay at South Branch a night or two and hike Traveler loop (10 magnificent miles, not to be missed!). Then head down through the park (it's longer but much prettier than driving back around through Patten) to any of the southern campgrounds to stage a Katahdin hike. If they have the time, spending a night at Chimney Pond, hiking the mountain and environs and then spending another night at CP is a great option.

oh, and for Moosehead:
1. Big Squaw (now known as Big Moose) is a pretty good, easy hike on south shore of Moosehead.
2. Big and Little Spencer mountains have stupendous vies of the lake and the rest of the area. They are a bit of a drive from Greenville, although not too bad from Lily Bay but are well worth it. If they only have time for one, I'd opt for Little Spencer, myself. The hike itself is lot more interesting, even if the views aren't quite as good.
3. If they are very adventurous and are into bushwhacking, there are several good options just to the east of the lake. These are not for the faint of heart.

Do they need a porter?
 
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Harrison Pierce Pond Camp & Gulf Hagas (2 Hikes)

I highly recommend a pleasant and most unique outing. Drive to Caratunk on US 201. Then hike the AT southbound (actually westbound in this area). Immediately you will come to the only canoe ferry crossing on the Appalachian Trail. That is an experience in itself. Then a pleasant four mile (600 foot elevation gain) woodland AT hike passing some scenic waterfalls along the way and that brings you to Harrison Pierce Pond camp (circa 1934) on the banks of beautiful Pierce Pond. For historical value, which was what was requested - here is a link to some info on this camp. Stay overnight and experience sunset from a conoe (courtesy of the camp) on the lake. In the morning you must experience the red, white & blue pancakes that the camp is known for! Then trek back for another canoe ride over the Kennebec! One point of consideration: Find out when the ferry is operating so you can adjust your schedule to the times it is running.
While in the area you can also walk over to Moxie Falls from the recreational parking area. Climb Moxie Bald, a small climb to a mountain unparalleled for its view as it the only summit in the area.

Gulf Hagas off ME 11 in the Hundred Mile Wilderness is another spectacular circular hike worth doing if going up towards Katahdin. En route to the hike you can stop and view the Kathdin Ironworks Historic Site. This partly restored Iron furnace is worth seeing while going to the trailhead. You can also get to this hike by staying at the AMC Lyford Camp.
 
Thanks everyone for the astute suggestions.

They are not planning to camp at Baxter, just to visit once or twice for day hikes. Can anyone predict what their chances might be to get in under those circumstances without reservations? They could probably arrange to go midweek rather than weekends.

Thanks again.
 
White Water Rafting

Hi,
Well, the suggestions provided has been first rate! Spencer should be a Maine tour guide :cool:

If they are looking to do something in addition to hiking, then I suggest trying some excellent white water rafting on the Penobscot River. Just head north/east on the Golden Road. There are numerous outfitters from which to choose. I don't know of any that are particularly bad. Here's a link for rafting Maine, which has links to several outfitters:
Maine Rafting

Regards,
Marty

NOTE: Just realized my mistake. No idea how I mistook Spencer for Arm. :confused: Sorry about that folks!
 
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Everything Spencer said. Blackflies and honeymoons tend to be just a bit mutually exclusive, so inside lodging (B&Bs) would be the way to go that time of year. Your question about access in Baxter is good, but I doubt in June that things would be that tough. Since it seems like they are just looking for dayhikes, camping reservations in Baxter will not be an issue. They don't close the park itself to access, but rather certain trailheads to parking, with Roaring Brook and Katahdin Stream (the most popular for access to Baxter Peak itself) the only ones that tend to be super-competitive. But June, midweek, I really don't think they'd encounter any problem at any of the trailheads.

Nice choice! I'm jealous. :D
Weatherman
 
I'm planning on hitting the Maine 4000 ftrs this year.

Thinking of May, avoid June, and again sfter July 4th. But that's kind of general. Any better time description of the bug bloom time table would be most appreciated.
 
spencer said:
...stay at South Branch a night or two and hike Traveler loop (10 magnificent miles, not to be missed!).

I have only been to Maine once, and do not know particularly much about the state. However, I can say with certainty that an overnight at South Branch Pond, and a hike of the Traveler Loop is one of the most sublime outdoor experiences I have ever had. Certainly among the best hikes in the northeast, and compares favorably with any hike I have done in the western USA or abroad. I recommend that this be strongly considered.
 
JoMary Lake Campground

Another accommodation which could be used as a base in the area for the Gulf Hagas is JoMary Lake Campground. I rented a trailer with bathroom for a group of four guys and used it as a base also for two hikes in the Hundred Mile Wilderness. We also had the CG pretty much for ourselves as it was mid-week in September. The CG had an excellent location right on the lake where they rent canoes with a phenomenal view of Katahdin across the lake. We even were lulled to sleep with the eerie sounds of loons. Link: http://www.campmaine.com/jo-mary/
 
My one piece of advice is..... in Maine during June, stay along the coast or the black flies will eat you alive. You can go to Katahdin or Rangeley, but be prepared to move fast or be scratching your itches for a while. Especially this year, with so much snowpack, there will be plenty of moisture for the breeding grounds of the flying buggers.
 
king tut said:
My one piece of advice is..... in Maine during June, stay along the coast or the black flies will eat you alive. You can go to Katahdin or Rangeley, but be prepared to move fast or be scratching your itches for a while. Especially this year, with so much snowpack, there will be plenty of moisture for the breeding grounds of the flying buggers.

Yep, I totally agree with this statement, as I am a true Maina....and even with that, they absolutely love my blood. After hubby and I tried 2x in a row to do a weekend hike on Memorial Day was NOT a good time to do that. You definately had to move pretty fast, the black flies were pretty adament about chasing after you. Now we don't plan much until after Memorial Day. Oh yeah with all the snow we got this year, I wouldn't be surprised if the darn things hang around a little longer unless we get some really hot days that'll burn those suckers! I wouldn't mind that at all.

As for getting into Baxter during the week goes, they may get lucky, but even still, they may want to get a really early start, they only let so many people into the park. I'm talking daybreak early......that's just been our experience, although we have a person that gets most reservations and we usually do weekend camping there. I've heard, mostly on the weekends, that there are lines of cars waiting to get into the park before sunrise. Just my 2 cents.
 
If it's mid-week, be at the gate at 6am and they shouldn't have any problem.

I still recommend doing the Traveler loop first. Really, as someone else said it's incredible. I have this idea that it has the highest proportion above treeline terrain of any 10 mile loop in the northeast. Of course, I haven't measured it to find out but I betcha it's close to the top.

Drive through the Matagamon gate, do the Traveler loop and drive back to wherever you are going to stay that night. Then be at the Togue Pond gate by 6am and you should get a parking spot at Roaring Brook, Abol or Katahdin Stream (the three Katahdin trailheads).

Bugs are never an excuse to alter your outdoor adventures. Really.

Did I miss Arm's post?

spencer
 
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