Anybody see the torch on Everest?

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John H Swanson

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I was watching the evening news last night and they had some footage of the torch reaching the summit of Everest.

Eventhough Tom Brokaw is gone, I'm still watching his channel as he would always include the occasional mountainering story (being he is a climber) I was thinking he might have given it a little more time than the 5-8 second clip.

Well thanks to Tivo, I saw it a half dozen times and noticed a few things. The summit approach, though generally easy had a fixed rope. I don't think that section usually has a fixed rope, but as an engineer, I'm sure I would have considered roping the entire route considering the importance and depth of resources available. Also I noticed that the climber with the torch at the summit was without oxygen mask for the photo op. I guess it makes political sense. He/she appeared lifeless and a few seconds away from frostbite. I also notice that, when it came time to raise the torch, the sherpa next to the climber lifted the hand with the torch into the air. He was wearing an oxygen mask. I got the impression that the climber did not have enough energy to lift the torch.

Don't take this the wrong way. I did not mean to critique but rather just report. We all know that it takes a tremenous effort to summit Everest and few can meet the challenge (I'n not one) In fact when I heard China intended to take the torch to the summit, it made me wonder if it would be possible and how.

this thread was not intended to start a Tibet rant nor a rant about limiting access to climbers for this event.
 
I saw some of the footage too. It did not look very pleasent up there at the time (windy, no view)

A friend of mine here at the hospital I work at has a nephew that works for a guide organization. They are currently on the mountain, I signed up for email updates. They were on sort of a holding pattern for a few days while the torch went up, I believe they have now been released to persue the summit.

"Is it real or is it Memorex", just speaking of the two seasons of the show on Discovery channel about the Everest climbs. Nothing to debate over that show, just mentioning it because seeing those shows gives me a representation of certain things as I get these email updates of the expedition mentioned above. Sort of nice to be able to picture in my mind where they are and what it might be like as I read the emails.
 
I must say this seems a little disrespectful to the mountain. Climbing to a schedule, grandstanding the event....it all seems like tempting the fates too much. I am by no means a religious or spiritual person, but I know when to show a cold mound of rock and ice the respect it demands, and this event did not seem to do that. This is, of course just my opinion, and this in no way reflects how I feel about climbing Everest in general. Indeed I can understand why people feel the desire to climb the mountain, but most (hopefully) treat the event with a bit more humblness and respect.

Brian
 
The Second Step

John H Swanson said:
The summit approach, though generally easy had a fixed rope. I don't think that section usually has a fixed rope, but as an engineer, I'm sure I would have considered roping the entire route considering the importance and depth of resources available.

A 5 - 6 meter fixed rope (ladder) has been a fixture on the Second Step since the Chinese ascent of the North Ridge route in 1960 (see first link for photo). The big question is whether George Mallory and/or Sandy Irvine (unlikely) could have free-climbed the Second Step in 1924 (see second link for Conrad Anker's view, based on his free climb of the steep rock on the Second Step in 1999; Conrad later discovered Mallory's body in a location that leaves the success of his summit bid in 1922 still debatable). Most likely Mallory did not take the steep rock route over the Second Step where the fixed rope is now installed, but rather stayed on the ridge, being the expert steep snow climber that he was, and assuming that Noel Odell at Camp 4 was correct that he saw Mallory (presumably not Irvine) above the second step "going strong for the summit."

http://www.alanarnette.com/alan/everestnorthroutes.php

http://www.everestnews2004.com/malloryandirvine2004/malloryandirvineroute2004.htm
 
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I thought it showed a touch of class to have a Tibetan woman be the one to carry the torch to the summit. And my hat's off the the cameraman who lugged that gear up there to record it.
 
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