Mt.Washington Winter Ascent for Novices

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TomD

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A new member on another board I belong to wants to know if a winter ascent of Mt. Washington would be appropriate for a novice hiker. I've never been anywhere near the place, but from everything I've read here, this seems like a really bad idea unless you are doing a guided climb with someone like IME or EMS. I also looked at the Observatory's website and they make it seem pretty extreme in the winter.

Is my assumption correct or am I being overly cautious based on all the rescue and accident stories I have read? All I am going by is second-hand, so some first hand advice would be appreciated.
 
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On a nice day, just about anyone can summit Washington. It's really no big deal. However, conditions can change very rapidly up there especially in winter. The weather can go from mostly sunny, mild temps, and a gentle breeze to complete white out and 100+ mph winds in just a few minutes.

I doubt you'll find many here who'd suggest a winter novice take on Washington solo, but that doesn't mean they couldn't get up there. Mother Nature may have the final say as to whether or not they come back.

JFYI:
You mentioned this was a new member that posted this. This is a common question posted on hiking sites by trolls.
 
I agree. Mount Washington could be summitted by a novice on a perfect day, but those are few and far between in wintertime. The summit is a good 2000 feet above treeline, so there is no easy escape route should weather conditions change suddenly. Obviously, having experience with winter hiking equipment, reading the skies/wind for weather, and familiarity with the trails is crucial for a safe hike. Going with someone(s), naturally, is highly recommended.
 
Mt Washington Novice ...

Good WX, proper equipment, and a cautious attitude would make this a reasonable hike for a novice, provided they went with an experienced hiker. As others have stated, not a big deal.

However, if the WX turns AND you are NOT equipped AND/or you are hiking outside your envelope and/or the envelope of your partner(s), it can become a bear!
 
Something like Madison, which gives you much of the same experience with significantly less time above treeline, would be a good starting point. You'll need the same gear (except for an ice axe) and be exposed to 95% of the same weather. Once you've done something like that and given your gear a shakedown and spent a little time above treeline in winter, then I'd consider planning a trip for Washington.
 
I am looking back at when I first did washington in the winter and I thought it was rather intimidating. I think many of us that have been there and done that on washington say its easy, etc.,. but for most complete novices, its a tough hike. just my 2 cents. I thought it was tough my first time for sure. If this person is with someone who knows the peak, etc.. and has winter skills, then I think its totally doable. No shame in going part of the way up to get a taste of the alpine zone and then come down w/o summiting.

Just this past weekend, I was at roughy 4500 feet in huntington and the weather went from not too bad to brutal wind whipped whiteout in about 30 seconds. I have summited washington roughly 15 times in winter conditions and this past weekend was a nice kick in the ass reminder of how brutal and unforgiving the peak can be on a bad day.
 
It also depends what you mean by "novice hiker". Have they ever used a map and compass? Are they capable of gaining 4000' of elevation in the limited daylight hours available? Have they ever navigated in the dark? Will they remember to bring a headlamp?

Hence, the many responses above including the recommendation of being accompanied by someone more experienced.
 
I did a lot of winter hiking (21 ADK 4k's, a Bond Traverse, Katahdin-Hamlin, etc), but not Mount Washington... None of the Presidentials in fatc. I'm way too scared ! Seriously, it is intimidating.

When I'll go it I'll be fully prepared and well accompagned.
 
Thanks for the responses. The poster sounds like a true novice-a young guy (he mentioned he is an ROTC cadet in school), relatively fit, but no real backpacking experience. He mentioned taking a NOLS course, so I suggested he do that first, then get into winter hiking.

The weather on Washington sounds like some of the weather I encountered in New Zealand, but more extreme in terms of temperatures. The weather in NZ can go from nice and pleasant shorts and tee shirt weather to heavy rain or snow in a matter of hours. Many of the reported rescues there involve the unprepared, who are often tourists without proper clothes and climbing gear who get lost or stranded.
 
The problem with Washington is it can be easy in the winter, but while up in the danger zone the shit can hit the fan fast. basic requierments should include, ability to navigate in socked in conditions, snowclimbing experience, ice ax knowledge, crampon knowledge, and route knowledge including how to descending in bad weather. The reason many people have died up there is it can be a very serious mountain, novice is a loose term imo. can you get up it? no one out here can really answer that for you, without knowing what you consider a novice.
 
Is this a winter novice or summer novice.

Concerns: Your pack should weigh 25 or more pounds if you are carrying enouh gear to survive the weather turning bad

Footwear should weigh considerly more than your summer footwear, more if in snowshoes or crampons.

Washington or any of the Presidentials are the place to learn how to put crampons & snowshoes off & to change from one to the other.

Keeping water liquid requires insulation

layering & moisture management more important, covering all exposed skin requires things like goggles, balaclava, face mask & glove systems not a pair of gloves

Food - some types of summer food take on brick consistancy in winter

My personal style on hiking the higher peaks is if the weather is bad, go someplace else, after numerous days that Washington conditions were harsher than I wanted (did things like Moriah, Waumbek, Field) this March I got a day where it was 25 with just a breeze at LOC & just a tad more at the top. I passed a guy in shorts. It took me years until a day like that fell on my day in NH.

My personal thought is getting someone winter ready should be edone on training hikes. Greylock, Monadnock, Cardigan, Liberty, Pierce, Ike & then they should be ready assuming they are going with someoen with experience & tehy learn from the warm up hikes.
 
All good points so far.

I would add that the route choice is also important. I would recommend using Tuckerman Ravine Trail, Lion's Head Trail (winter route ), then follow the track to the summit. Do it on a Saturday, and you will not be alone, which will make it much safer.

The winter route is clearly marked with an orange sign

In winter, the difference b/w nice and bad weather is tremendous. Personally, if strong wind/wind chill is forecast I wouldn't go. Just not enjoyable. If it's even cloudy, you'll miss the incredible views.

So, wait for a bluebird Saturday and get an early start on the above route.

happy trails :)
 
I thought W would be great for my first winter hike way back when. I ended up getting lost and camping above tree line at night, not fun. :eek: It all depends on the weather really. If he's new to winter hiking, I would suggest something with minimal tree line exposure like Mt. Liberty. Something where he can poke his head up in the wind and see what it's like. Maybe do Moosilauke, that has a little more alpine area.
 
Mongoose said:
Maybe do Moosilauke, that has a little more alpine area.

Moosilauke from the south (Upper Carriage Road from Glen Cliff Trail) can be tricky if winter weather turns into white out conditions, as some of the key carins are buried in snow drifts; trails from the north (Beaver Brook) and the east (Gorge Brook) are safer in marginal winter conditions, I think. But, I agree that the above-treeline experience on the Moose is superb.
 
Dr. Dasypodidae said:
Moosilauke from the south (Upper Carriage Road from Glen Cliff Trail) can be tricky if winter weather turns into white out conditions, as some of the key carins are buried in snow drifts; trails from the north (Beaver Brook) and the east (Gorge Brook) are safer in marginal winter conditions, I think. But, I agree that the above-treeline experience on the Moose is superb.
Thom -

I was on the Glen Cliff in October and it's been about a year since I'd been there last. You've probably seen this too, but if you haven't - the folks from the DOC have built some truly large cairns at that tricky spot where it's easy to drift left on the descent towards the scrub, and greatly improved the safety level. Am in agreement with your assessment - Moosilauke is one of my favorite peaks, but needs respect.
 
TomD said:
Is my assumption correct or am I being overly cautious based on all the rescue and accident stories I have read? All I am going by is second-hand, so some first hand advice would be appreciated.
I would say your assumption is semi correct because it really depends on the "leader" and the other guy going. The range is pretty nasty but you can learn from experience - this is why we sometimes go with a guide or a friend in the know into unknown territory.

Buuuuttt... if it were me leading and this was a friend who was willing to show the mountain respect and willing to listen to EVERY instruction I gave him/her then I would take them up and keep a very close eye. And like Gig said, it's even worth it to just get them above treeline for a bit to get a taste of what it's like.

Unfortunately it's not as easy to take anyone up something like that - the amount of clothing and equipment you need is a big initial hurdle - stuff ain't cheap.
 
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I think TomD's initial post is a question from someone on the MWO webpage forum. I was lurking over there the other day an saw the post. It seemed like he was getting some of the same warnings over there. The novice hiker was not from New England and was not familiar with the White Mountains or the Presidential Range. Someone one MWO forum suggested he get a guide. That In my opinion was the best advice but I also sounded like his budget was tight. I think he said he was a college student.
My first winter climb was Monadnock. You get the ice and above tree line experience without sticking your neck out to far. Route finding skills are still necessary!
 
Woody, this question was asked on The Lightweight Backpacker, but it may be a common question. Washington is so well-known, that hiking it seems a popular choice.

Out west, Shasta, Hood, Rainier and Whitney attract a lot of newbies, with the occasional inicidents due to all the hikers in all seasons.
 
Wasington in Winter, No for Novice

If you have to ask, you are not ready. Try smaller peaks and work up 4000 footers. Then start with easy 4ks like Jackson. Get out there and hike and pay your dues, you will enjoy it more, unguided, making your own decisions. I don't think a winter (or any other) pack is measured by its weight. The right gear is what is needed, and nothing more. Happy trails. :)

Lorax
Probably sounding like an old fart
 
washington

Climbed Washington yesterday via summer Lion Head Trail (winter not open yet). There were a lot of people, and at least two guided groups, one from R.E.I. and one from Arcadia Mountain Guides, neither local.
It was pretty cold and windy, but many made it to top.
If a "beginner" is someone not even familiar with the equipment, then they need to go up Washington with someone more expeirenced.
I was looking at the mountains to the west, thinking that was the real wilderness, not hiking up to Mount Washington town.
The summit fox is getting out of control, and mooching off of hikers now at the doorway to the Sherman Adams Building.
 
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