Whisperlights in Winter

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Svea's crap ;). (Me and a friend used to actually have this argument.) I was an Optimus 8R user from 1973 through about 1990. When I got back to winter backpacking I tried to find it's closest modern relative and bought a Primus Himalaya. I have had no problems in winter and the initial priming flare and subsequent jet noise give me nostalgic goose bumps every time :).

You'll never get to the top by giving up too soon: Optimus Hiker+, heir to the 8R.
 
winter stove

My whisperlight has proven time after time (and winter after winter) to be dependable.

When I first got this stove I did not read the manuel and one trip (first cold trip) it would not pump. Someone in the group smarter then I was (at that time- about 15 years ago) showed me that the leather pump cap was dried out, So therefore it failed to keep a seal and would not pump. A few drops of silicone lubricant and it was good to go.

I would also add that maybe the cap shrunk a bit from the cold.

I still have that stove- even though a tiny piece (plastic) of the pump broke off and so did the fuel cup. One day I'll send it back to the manufacturers, but I would miss it.
 
All this talk makes me want to take my trusted and reliable MSR Dragonfly out back and cook dinner on the deck with it. I love that roar!

I think many of these stoves are all equally good at one extremely important thing: being field-serviceable. Some have more parts, some have less, but all of them can be repaired on a hike, especially if you carry a little lightweight kit of replacement parts for those things that do fail over time.
 
The 123 gets primed in summer with a match or two held under the tank, while the valve is open...

DOH! Now why didn't I think of that? Thanks!

...Also, after you turn your stove off, shake the burner assembly back and forth. You'll hear a little pin clicking up and down. It's there to keep the jet clean...

Not if it's an older one like mine that doesn't have the shaker jet. I got tired of cleaning my old Whisperlite, which is why I switched to the Svea which never clogs.
 
I have a whisper lite international and it has not given me any issues. That's not to say everyone will have the same experience. But can I ask you, are all these problems occurring with the same can of fuel? Can water be in it?
 
I've used my Whisperlite International for many many years without problems in all conditions till I bought a new pump a couple years ago.

The new design of the pumps don't allow you to regulate the simmer gas flow. The new pumps are designed to be on or off, the regulators are now built into the fuel lines.

Another thing to look for is the jet tht is installed on your Whisperlite Int. Is it the white gas or unledded gas or kerosine jet? The manual will tell you which one is which (I dont know off hand) but this will make a big deifference in preformance.

Also as mentioned above by the other here, it is a wise to grease the O rings n the pump cup. The check valve in the pump should also be looked at as this may be what is causing the pop noise n losing preasure.

Clean fuel is also recomended. Maybe dump tht bottl eof feul n start with a fresh bactch?

BTW at very cold temps as the fuel cools it looses preasure so warming it will only aserbate the problem since it will not equalize n regulating presure is a constant battle. The generator tube is what vaporizes the fuel n warms it to operating temps regardless of what the temperature is outside... thus the reason for a good prime when it is very cold.

OH do you have a plain whiperlite or an international whiserlite?

My Svea retired when I was in the boy scouts 45 years ago then replaced it with a Peak 400, the one that looks like a tub with a stove on top. Then retired that one about 30 years ago with the Whisperlite Int n never looked back.

.
 
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The new design of the pumps don't allow you to regulate the simmer gas flow. The new pumps are designed to be on or off, the regulators are now built into the fuel lines.

I thought this was always true of the Whisperlite? I'd always heard them described as having two settings: off and volcano. I bought a Dragonfly a decade ago because of this reason - it has an actual knob on it to control the flame and can truly simmer.
 
Yes, you have the wrong stove. Try this:SVEA 123.

Raise your hand if your stove will light all the time, every time, no matter how cold -- mine will.

My fav SVEA story: I acquired and used a SVEA 123 back in the 70's when I was a teen, hiking in the southern appalachians. Rock-solid. After some random trip it got put away.

Went to college, life happened, stuff, moving, jobs, marriage, kids. 30 years go by. My parents move, and emptied out their basement, filling mine with all my old camping gear.

I get ready to go on a winter backpacking trip with my near-teenage son, and realize I have the SVEA 123 in the basement.

So I dig it out. Still full of fuel (from the 70's), carry it out to the back porch, and it lights up the first time, giving me the satisfying blowtorch sound.
 
You'll never get to the top by giving up too soon: Optimus Hiker+, heir to the 8R.

At least one of my 2 old 8Rs (one still has the original box :cool:) probaby still works, so I wouldn't need the "Hiker", but I'm glad to see the excellent design is still available. I wanted something a bit more compact with the larger external tank. As I recall, the 8Rs incorporated tank was only good for a meal or maybe 2.
 
I think many of these stoves are all equally good at one extremely important thing: being field-serviceable. Some have more parts, some have less, but all of them can be repaired on a hike, especially if you carry a little lightweight kit of replacement parts for those things that do fail over time.

I have no idea about the field-serviceable qualities of a Svea 123. If the occasion ever arises in the next 40 years, I'll let you know. (Actually, I have torn mine down once, just for the heck of it.)

As I've said previously, I take my wife's Whisperlite and its multipart toolkit when I want something for entertaining myself at the campsite. I take the Svea when I want to cook something quickly and reliably. :p
 
I have no idea about the field-serviceable qualities of a Svea 123. If the occasion ever arises in the next 40 years, I'll let you know. :p

Funny stuff. Last night I was trying to remember if I ever even cleaned the 8R. I don't remember ever having done it. I've mentioned this here before: Worse thing that ever happened was I forgot to remove the metal gas valve key after lighting and after I finished cooking, went to turn it off and the key was red hot, burning the little cut-out tool patterns into my thumb and forefinger :eek:.

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I've had my WhisperLight for a number of years and never had a problem. I don't go out much except in winter. Key to this stove and most any gear is to maintain it. Keep it clean. Lubricate. Change out the o-rings on the pump a regular basis.

I'm sure there are "better" stoves just as there are "better" boots and "better" poles and "better" <gear of your choice>. The last I checked... "better" was an opinion and there's rarely a way to prove it beyond any doubt.
 
I got a new whisperlight last year, in part because two years ago I had the same problem while using a new pump with an ancient whisperlight. I figured I'd just upgrade to new everything, so I returned the pump that failed and got a whole new stove (complete with new pump, which let me down this weekend). So what's the deal?
Any ideas on some basic Whisperlights in Winter issues?
Mariachi

Stash said:
I've had my WhisperLight for a number of years and never had a problem. I don't go out much except in winter. Key to this stove and most any gear is to maintain it. Keep it clean. Lubricate. Change out the o-rings on the pump a regular basis.

Stash said:
I'm sure there are "better" stoves just as there are "better" boots and "better" poles and "better" <gear of your choice>. The last I checked... "better" was an opinion and there's rarely a way to prove it beyond any doubt.

Sorry Stash, us old dudes got this thread off track :eek:.

To be fair, we were discussing stoves that have a history of not failing in winter and require little or no maintenance.
 
The 123 gets primed in summer with a match or two held under the tank, while the valve is open. When you get enough to light, blow out the match and close the valve. In winter, it's usually a candle. You have to be pretty careless to heat it so much that liquid fuel spurts out of the nozzle. Under very rare circumstances in the summer, I've been able to prime it as suggested in the instructions by holding the tank in my hands. But that's more of a parlor trick, IMO, than a reliable method.

This reliable procedure is really the critical difference between the 123 and the Optimus 8R and its ilk. The latter need the pump. The optional 123 pump was often bought by unskilled 123 users who looked longingly at the 8R -- much like an appeal to Tim Allen's need for "More power!!!"

To get a Svea stove started: dose it in gas and throw in a match. basic and simple.
 
But the flash point is indeed -22ºF/-33ºC, as shown on the spec sheet from Coleman. This means that below that temperature, the fuel will not ignite in air.

On a NOLS course in 2005, my group got a bunch of whisperlites working at -34 one morning. The lighters wouldn't light until they'd been heated in a pocket for a minute or two, and then the coleman fuel wouldn't light until the lighter's flame had been held to it for a few seconds, but once it lit everything was fine.

Last weekend I took my Whisperlite out for the weekend down to -18... I hadn't used this particular stove in five years, and the fuel had been sitting in the bottle just as long. Started up without issue. I love it when that happens :)
 
minus 34 is a deep freeze for sure... glad to know it can be done.

Priming is everything.

.
 
Priming is everything - and it takes a while to learn to avoid flare-ups (I use my ears and shut it down as soon as I hear a hiss). In my experience, most problems, particularly in winter, are caused by filling the fuel bottle too full. ½ - ¾ is best.
 
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