A Potential Tragedy While Whacking MacNaughton

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adktyler

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Location
Saranac Lake, NY
I’m quite hesitant to write this report, because every time a hike of ours doesn’t go as planned, I feel like we loose quite a bit of credibility and respect. I’m not sure if that is pride talking, or just the fact that I cringe when I think about the situations in which we end up, and the decisions which lie behind those circumstances. Nevertheless, here is the story of our “winter 47” completion:

My dad and I arrived at the Upper Works trailhead at 6:30am on Saturday. It rained for the majority of the drive, and continued in a steady mix of rain and sleet as we geared up for our trek. The air was warm, and smelt faintly of spring. As we began to trudge along, we noted that no one had been up MacNaughton from that direction for the entire month of December and before. Upon arriving at the second trailhead, I put on my tails, and we began the trail breaking that continued for the rest of the day. We chose a bushwhack up MacNaughton from the south, and while I won’t include details, I’m sure it’s easy enough to figure out which route we chose. Our course meandered though surprisingly open forests, and we crisscrossed the stream bed only when we found it necessary. Even though the snow was unbroken and a couple of feet deep, it packed down well, so neither of us needed to slam our snowshoes down multiple times with every step.

VIDEO of bushwhack to Wallface Ponds: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IESHjGuzq9w

As we neared Wallface Ponds the snow became a lot deeper, and the spruce traps much less merciful. As you can see in the video, I was swimming though snow at some points. The ponds were well frozen over, and we crossed them with ease. The rain had been falling on and off throughout the morning; sometimes sleeting, and sometimes merely sprinkling. We took a short food break at the base of MacN, and were soon on our way up the peak about which I had heard many a nightmarish story. The beginning of the climb was intense, and a wrong step on my behalf sent me plummeting into chest-deep spruce traps. However, about one third of the way up the mountain the woods became much more open, and spruce traps all but disappeared. I was incredibly thankful for the lack of blow down, since I had set myself up for the worst. However, another condition-based challenge haunted us: mash potato snow!

VIDEO of whack up MacNaughton: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8pmgCUGKVE

Mash potato snow, slush…oobleck, call it what you may, this snow was terrible. I would much rather have been breaking trail though powder. The water-soaked slush stuck to my snowshoes and made me feel like I was hiking in 1950s-era led diving boots! Here we have a fairly open route up to the summit, and the snow conditions simply had to make the going a challenge. I guess it wouldn’t be MacNaughton if it were easy. After two hours, however, we made it to the summit ridge. And so began the game of find-the-summit. If I had really paid attention to the ten-odd trip reports I read about MacNaughton, I would have remembered that the summit sign is on the northwest summit. But no, we instead spent thirty minutes wandering around the ridge looking for the sign. The GPS, of course, showed the summit to be on the middle peak, the one with the southern overlook. That’s where we ended up, and contented ourselves with it being the true summit, and good enough for us. Besides, that’s where the maps listed the location of the highest point, and for all we know it’s higher than the northwest summit anyway. I’m content, and you nit-pickers can hassle me all you want ;)

VIDEO of summit of MacNaughton:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCK-I7CD-3s

The real adventure began after we left the summit! We arrived back at the Wallface Ponds in pretty good spirits. The rain had mostly soaked us though at that point, but we had no other complaints – we just bagged MacNaughton! A beautiful sunset behind the viewless peak further adding to our good spirits, not to mention we found the exit trail back to Indian Pass quickly and easily. However, our good spirits were short lived. Within two minutes of being on the trail I had fallen though the snow and into a wet puddle not once, or twice, but three times. Then, we lost the trail. This majorly ticked me off, because I had my hopes up for an easy exit following a straightforward trail. It disappeared as soon as we hit the unnamed pond, and we ended up following the drainage all the way to Scott Pond (this is CHOCK FULL of blow down, and is shear torture to push through, especially in the dark). In hindsight, if we had stayed more south we probably would have been able to find the trail. But in our defense, the trail had been ambiguous at best from the Wallface Ponds on.

VIDEO of Wallface Ponds: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aqfybq2l1dQ

Joining the trail once again at the end of Scott Pond was a major relief. Even though it wasn’t broken, we trudged along at a pretty good pace and eventually made it back to Indian Pass. This is when my dad hit the wall. His energy was pretty much gone, our pace slowed quite a bit, and he felt sick to his stomach. Once we passed the intersection with Cold Brook Trail, the nightmare reared its ugly head in all of its sinister glory. Not only had we failed to calculate the steep incline in the trail parallel to Wallface, but we also spent only half the time between that intersection and the Wallface Lean-to on the actual trail. The remaining time was spent wandering around, crawling slowly in the general direction, looking for trailmarkers, with adrenaline-strangled minds. My father was exhausted, and we had a heck of a time trying to find the marked path. I was most scared while navigating a boulder field at one point roughly 500 feet southeast of the actual trail. I constantly came to dead ends, with a twenty foot boulder in front of me, and a twenty foot-deep cavern to the right and left of me. That entire area to the east of Wallface is choked with mammoth stones, lending it nearly impossible to travel though.

Sunset:
17132_1304416257292_1437080151_30886569_1790519_n.jpg


After an insufferable amount of time, we finally reconnected with the trail. The GPS showed us crisscrossing the trail constantly, and it wasn’t until I said to heck with it, and decided to simply head towards Indian Pass Brook, that we found the marked path. I should have known better, because I’m well aware that the GPS map is often inaccurate when it comes to finer details. I must say, conversely, that seeing that faded, worn-out trailmarker next to the Indian Pass Brook was one of the most beautiful sights my eyes have ever beheld. Trying to hike though the mess of terrain we had just traversed in the wind and rain at 11:00 at night is NOT my idea of a good time!

Some nice ice:
17132_1304415617276_1437080151_30886554_8152724_n.jpg


The remaining hike out consisted of consistent breaks, a speed below one mile per hour, and micro-nap breaks at the two lean-tos. We arrived back at the car by 1:30 am, making it a total of 16 hours round trip. That’s a long time to be hiking such a “short” distance (16 miles maybe?). What have we learned? Well, my dad knows his limitations better, and I know that I can’t simply suggest a hike without taking into consideration all of the factors. Plus, examining the topo lines a little more carefully also wouldn’t hurt! Either way, we drove home, called a worried wife and girlfriend on the way, and after several nap breaks made it home safe and sound at 6:30 am. I slept though the day and it was totally worth it.

The Macs, shrouded in clouds:
17132_1304415937284_1437080151_30886561_6307089_n.jpg


 
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ADK88 -- thank you so much for posting such an honest and humble account. We all learn from other people's experiences.

I'm so glad you and your father made it out. Congratulations on perservering and kudos to you for keeping your head.

Again, many thanks for posting this.
 
Wow ! Glad it turned out OK.
Sounds like you were on "the edge" but smartly managed it.
I hope that is the worst one you ever have to endure.
 
Well, Tyler, I'm just glad you and your Dad are home safe and sound.

Another Winter suggestion I would give you is to return on the path you started.

And FWIW, there are great views on the 'signed' summit. :)
 
Dang, man, tough night.

I'm glad you both pulled through OK. For what it's worth, it sounds like you did a number of things right, in and among the errors. You stayed calm, you pursued rational solutions to your difficulties, and you persevered.

This kind of thing, by the way, is why I basically don't go 'deep in' in the winter, whether accompanied or alone, without stuff to spend the night. I catch a certain amount of grief for my huge pack, but I'm happier wishing I didn't have it with me than I'd be wishing I did.

The exhaustion issue in this report is one that speaks to me, as I spent a lot of this season training to avoid it on ultra-long hikes and runs up to marathon length. Basically, I think I learned two things.

1. On tough terrain, the absolute maximum distance I can hike over the course of a day is roughly twice what I can cover in my longest training run, or a little less than the total mileage I run in a week. Obviously the particulars vary, but it's a decent rule of thumb to figure out the endurance base needed for a particular escapade. Your situation -- mashed potato snow, bushwhack, etc. rates 'extra points'. I don't know what kind of workout regimen you or your dad maintain, but exhaustion would be a threat to most mere mortals on this hike.

2. You have to eat and rest like the whole day is a marathon, from beginning to end. The first food break you take, an hour into your day, and every one thereafter, is all about preventing the bonk at the end. Runners gels, or other quick carb sources, are really good for forestalling the crash at the end, too -- I keep a few of these in my first aid kit now. The thing is, you have to get them on board before the crash comes.

Either I'm not reading carefully enough, or you don't mention being warm or cold much, but this situation is a perfect hypothermia setup. You get wet, you get wiped out, inevitably you end up dehydrated, obviously you end up exhausted -- and then the insidious secondary problem crops up and starts killing somebody.
 
Thanks so much for posting this. I think we forget how many of these sorts of things probably happen, but do not get posted sine they lack the glory of trips that go off without a hitch.

There is ample glory here though -- You got your father and self out relatively unscathed. Someone less experienced or more prone to panic probably couldn't have managed. I think you did a really solid job of handling what was thrown at you. Again, thanks for posting this.
 
ADK88 -- thank you so much for posting such an honest and humble account. We all learn from other people's experiences.

I'm so glad you and your father made it out. Congratulations on perservering and kudos to you for keeping your head.

Again, many thanks for posting this.

Thank you for the encouragement! I hope that this story will help someone keep a realistic outlook on hiking in winter. I know it's certainly refreshed and de-familiarized my attitude. Familiarity breeds contempt!

Wow ! Glad it turned out OK.
Sounds like you were on "the edge" but smartly managed it.
I hope that is the worst one you ever have to endure.

Thanks, Rookie! I hope it's the worst as well. We will certainly take action in the future to prevent such an even reoccurring!

Well, Tyler, I'm just glad you and your Dad are home safe and sound.

Another Winter suggestion I would give you is to return on the path you started.

And FWIW, there are great views on the 'signed' summit. :)

Thanks, Tom. I agree with you on the return path. My dad mentioned several times that we should have just taken our shortcut back to Indian Pass. I'm on a bit of a crusade to hike as many new trails as possible, so it's my fault that we went via the Wallface Pond trail. In hindsight, it was a very poor decision!

Good to know! I plan on hiking this peak again in the non-winter months. I want a picture with the sign, and want to try it via a different route!

Dang, man, tough night.

I'm glad you both pulled through OK. For what it's worth, it sounds like you did a number of things right, in and among the errors. You stayed calm, you pursued rational solutions to your difficulties, and you persevered.

This kind of thing, by the way, is why I basically don't go 'deep in' in the winter, whether accompanied or alone, without stuff to spend the night. I catch a certain amount of grief for my huge pack, but I'm happier wishing I didn't have it with me than I'd be wishing I did.

The exhaustion issue in this report is one that speaks to me, as I spent a lot of this season training to avoid it on ultra-long hikes and runs up to marathon length. Basically, I think I learned two things.

1. On tough terrain, the absolute maximum distance I can hike over the course of a day is roughly twice what I can cover in my longest training run, or a little less than the total mileage I run in a week. Obviously the particulars vary, but it's a decent rule of thumb to figure out the endurance base needed for a particular escapade. Your situation -- mashed potato snow, bushwhack, etc. rates 'extra points'. I don't know what kind of workout regimen you or your dad maintain, but exhaustion would be a threat to most mere mortals on this hike.

2. You have to eat and rest like the whole day is a marathon, from beginning to end. The first food break you take, an hour into your day, and every one thereafter, is all about preventing the bonk at the end. Runners gels, or other quick carb sources, are really good for forestalling the crash at the end, too -- I keep a few of these in my first aid kit now. The thing is, you have to get them on board before the crash comes.

Either I'm not reading carefully enough, or you don't mention being warm or cold much, but this situation is a perfect hypothermia setup. You get wet, you get wiped out, inevitably you end up dehydrated, obviously you end up exhausted -- and then the insidious secondary problem crops up and starts killing somebody.

Wow, thanks for the complete response!! I appreciate the advice. I have several comments.

First of all, I never hike in the winter without being ready to spend the night. I carry a 3,000ci "daypack" in winter with enough clothing, gear, and food to spend about 48 hours outdoors. I also get grief from it, but I don't care at all. TOTALLY cliche, but better safe than sorry. My dad takes a more minimalist approach, so I end up carrying some things for him as well ;)

I like your exercise advice, it's a great rule of thumb. I run 5 miles about every other day, and my dad has some hour-long workout routine on the treadmill every morning. To be honest, I was fine physically. It was my third hike in two weeks, and I was able to handle the trip physically. I would have been out of the woods in probably 4 hours less time if it were up to me. I was most tired by the end of the hike from the long amount of time hiking. I also broke trail about 90% of the day to save my dad's energy. Overall I was pretty pleased with my own physical performance.

The quick carb suggestion is really valid, and I need to look into it further. My dad maintains a high sugar diet, and a rich electrolyte drink consumption. Therefore I think part of his troubles may have been caused by a salt deficiency. Just an un-educated guess, however. Additionally, this was his first hike of the season, and he was sick last week so he missed a few days of treadmill workout. I didn't think those two factors would have been as much of an issue, but apparently we were pretty wrong!

Yes, the cold! It was actually pretty warm. I don't think the temperatures dropped much below 30 degrees the entire day. But yes, it was a perfect hypothermia setup. We didn't become really wet until 2/3 into the hike, and at that point we were already well on our way out. Our shells did a pretty good job keeping us dry. Later on my dad did become cold in his hands, so I lent him my dry mittens. His heart was beating so fast, however, and we kept moving constantly (minus the two nap breaks), that his core stayed quite warm.
I added some layers later on in the evening, so I stayed quite warm. Since I was breaking trail most of the day, I also stayed pretty comfortable at a slower pace. Plus, much of the the way back my dad would stand and rest while I hiked ahead 20-50 feet looking for trail markers. This kept me quite warm!!
So yes, hypothermia was in the forefront of my mind. Yet it didn't really become an issues, and I had enough try clothing in my pack that I could have completely outfitted my father with dry cloths had he needed to spend the night.

I hope that explains everything!

Thanks so much for posting this. I think we forget how many of these sorts of things probably happen, but do not get posted sine they lack the glory of trips that go off without a hitch.

There is ample glory here though -- You got your father and self out relatively unscathed. Someone less experienced or more prone to panic probably couldn't have managed. I think you did a really solid job of handling what was thrown at you. Again, thanks for posting this.

I appreciate your comments, Unstrung Harp! Trips like this certainly keep us humble, and make us safer in the future. Thanks for your re-enforcement. I had to remind myself a couple times to calm down, and keeping our mental threads on track certainly made the situation more bearable!
 
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I’m quite hesitant to write this report, because every time a hike of ours doesn’t go as planned, I feel like we loose quite a bit of credibility and respect.

I haven't had a chance to read everything yet, but I disagree with this right off. You get more credibility and respect, in my book.
 
I’m quite hesitant to write this report, because every time a hike of ours doesn’t go as planned, I feel like we loose quite a bit of credibility and respect. I’m not sure if that is pride talking, or just the fact that I cringe when I think about the situations in which we end up, and the decisions which lie behind those circumstances.


i'm with chip. it's a lot harder to share an experience that didn't go as planned than to talk about our successes. it's also important to get the occasional reality check about the kind of activities we all take part in. to think that given the amount of time most of us spend outdoors that we will never lose our way, experience an injury, etc. is foolish. reports like yours remind us that regardless of experience or skill level we can all have a trip turn sour.
i'm glad you guys made it out ok. it sounds like it was quite a day.
thanks for sharing.

bryan
 
I’m quite hesitant to write this report, because every time a hike of ours doesn’t go as planned, I feel like we loose quite a bit of credibility and respect.
Tyler, I can only echo what Chip has indicated, which is that as far as I'm concerned, you have lost neither credibility nor respect. On the contrary, your report bolsters my high regard for you.

Perhaps I can also add that mistakes are painful when they happen, but I seem to recall it being said that a collection of mistakes is what is called experience. Without mistakes, how are we going to know what we need to work on?!:)

It's terrific to read that you and your Dad made it out unharmed. This will certainly be an adventure that will live on in your family's folklore for generations to come!

As others have already said, thank you for sharing your experience with us!
 
You had a very successful climb, tough, but successful. Good job.

Kudos to your dad. How old is he?

Success isn't the absence of problems, success is the result of how you deal with your problems.

Are you beneficiary on you dads life insurance? :eek: If I was him I'd change that before hiking with you again. :p:D
 
[q]I hope that explains everything! [/q]

And then some! For what it's worth, I hope it's clear I wasn't trying to insinuate anything about your preparation in any respect -- just, in view of this whole thread as likely a widely-read and carefully noted one, my 2 cents to the whole staying-safe-in-the-woods discussion.

I don't think there's anything here for anyone to beat you up about, really. You managed a few surprises well, I think.
 
okay, finally had a chance to read the report, but not yet to view vids.

Your father is probably my age (which makes me sad, but that's my problem). On my first winter summit, Mt Marcy, in probably 1973, the woods were plastered with "Have you seen this man ?" notices. A college guy hiking alone had, as it turns out, done a full body spruce trap post hole that winter and was found in the spring. So I'm a bit paranoid of that potential and probably would have turned around before the summit on your hike. I'm a bit surprised hypothermia wasn't an issue, but thankfully it wasn't (and I'll add another but) but it easily could have been.

Anyway, I'm glad you both made it out safe and that you didn't kill your father ;). Thanks for posting. Street Cred and Mad Respect to you and him !
 
Anybody who does ambitious trips is likely to have an epic sooner or later. In winter, of course, travel is slower, more difficult, and more unpredictable. And the consequences of a problem can be greater.

It sounds as though your dad didn't have much margin left, but fortunately nothing happened that pushed him beyond the limit.

By sharing these stories, we can hopefully reduce the incidence of epics (and some kinds of accidents). I, for one, would rather learn about what to do and not do from someone else's epic, than from my own...

IMO, this is a much more useful report than the more common: I came, I conquered, I set my flag on yet another four thousander reports.

Doug
 
Thanks very much for posting this valuable report. It reminds me more than a little of Guy Waterman's famous "Winter Above Treeline" cautionary piece, and IMO it deserves a place alongside it in any winter hiker's library.

Extra points for mentioning the tails. ;)
 
I haven't had a chance to read everything yet, but I disagree with this right off. You get more credibility and respect, in my book.

Well thank you, I appreciate that!

i'm with chip. it's a lot harder to share an experience that didn't go as planned than to talk about our successes. it's also important to get the occasional reality check about the kind of activities we all take part in. to think that given the amount of time most of us spend outdoors that we will never lose our way, experience an injury, etc. is foolish. reports like yours remind us that regardless of experience or skill level we can all have a trip turn sour.
i'm glad you guys made it out ok. it sounds like it was quite a day.
thanks for sharing.

bryan

Thanks, Bryan! A reality check is an excellent way of putting it. This trip was certainly just that!

Tyler, I can only echo what Chip has indicated, which is that as far as I'm concerned, you have lost neither credibility nor respect. On the contrary, your report bolsters my high regard for you.

Perhaps I can also add that mistakes are painful when they happen, but I seem to recall it being said that a collection of mistakes is what is called experience. Without mistakes, how are we going to know what we need to work on?!:)

It's terrific to read that you and your Dad made it out unharmed. This will certainly be an adventure that will live on in your family's folklore for generations to come!

As others have already said, thank you for sharing your experience with us!

I cherish your continued positive feedback, John! Yes, even though the mistakes suck when you're experiencing them, you grow and learn so much though it! This story will be passed on, as you said, and we'll hopefully look back and see how far we've come.

You had a very successful climb, tough, but successful. Good job.

Kudos to your dad. How old is he?

Success isn't the absence of problems, success is the result of how you deal with your problems.

Are you beneficiary on you dads life insurance? :eek: If I was him I'd change that before hiking with you again. :p:D

Thanks! My dad will be 50 this April. Don't tell him I told you that ;)

Haha, my guess is that my mom is. To be brutally honest, that thought has never crossed my mind! lol

[q]I hope that explains everything! [/q]

And then some! For what it's worth, I hope it's clear I wasn't trying to insinuate anything about your preparation in any respect -- just, in view of this whole thread as likely a widely-read and carefully noted one, my 2 cents to the whole staying-safe-in-the-woods discussion.

I don't think there's anything here for anyone to beat you up about, really. You managed a few surprises well, I think.

Great, thanks. Oh no, I didn't think you were judging at all. I've actually been really, really happy with the feedback I've received from you and others. It has been both supportive and full of helpful suggestions. Thanks for your input, I appreciate it!

okay, finally had a chance to read the report, but not yet to view vids.

Your father is probably my age (which makes me sad, but that's my problem). On my first winter summit, Mt Marcy, in probably 1973, the woods were plastered with "Have you seen this man ?" notices. A college guy hiking alone had, as it turns out, done a full body spruce trap post hole that winter and was found in the spring. So I'm a bit paranoid of that potential and probably would have turned around before the summit on your hike. I'm a bit surprised hypothermia wasn't an issue, but thankfully it wasn't (and I'll add another but) but it easily could have been.

Anyway, I'm glad you both made it out safe and that you didn't kill your father ;). Thanks for posting. Street Cred and Mad Respect to you and him !

Wow, Chip. You've certainly experienced this sort of thing yourself. And you remember the things you've learned from that trip to this day. I'm sure I'll remember things same way in the future, at least I sure hope so. Thanks for sharing your experience!

Anybody who does ambitious trips is likely to have an epic sooner or later. In winter, of course, travel is slower, more difficult, and more unpredictable. And the consequences of a problem can be greater.

It sounds as though your dad didn't have much margin left, but fortunately nothing happened that pushed him beyond the limit.

By sharing these stories, we can hopefully reduce the incidence of epics (and some kinds of accidents). I, for one, would rather learn about what to do and not do from someone else's epic, than from my own...

IMO, this is a much more useful report than the more common: I came, I conquered, I set my flag on yet another four thousander reports.

Doug

Well I'm glad that I could be your epic. That's one bright thought I had while out on the trail, that hopefully this experience will mean something to somebody besides ourselves. I'm pretty sure it has!!

Nice job Tyler - for working thru the situation, and for reporting it. Glad it worked out for the both of you.

Thanks Scott. I'm very blessed with happy endings!

This day was not even close to being as bad as the Ore Bed Brook Trail descent a couple years back.

Yea, good memory. You're very correct. This was a different situation, though. And that event still plays in our head every time we're in a situation like that. I would really, really hate to bother the rangers again!

Thanks very much for posting this valuable report. It reminds me more than a little of Guy Waterman's famous "Winter Above Treeline" cautionary piece, and IMO it deserves a place alongside it in any winter hiker's library.

Extra points for mentioning the tails. ;)

Thank you!! I'll check out that book, thanks.
:)

Great TR, glad you both made it out safe. Do you post your GPS tracks anywhere, (such as Wikiloc?)

Thank you, Paradox! I don't post our tracks anywhere. I prefer to keep things as private as possible in public, but am happy to share things with people via PM. Maybe it's selfish, but I want the wilderness to be preserved as much as possible for people who know how to treat it.

:confused: eddie, are you his father ? I'm confused. I thought there were only 2 people on this trip.

Haha, no, he's not my dad. He's just referring to a separate incident several years ago that was much worse. That one had an eventual happy ending as well, though!
 
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