John H Swanson
Active member
As mentioned in the "Katahdin - a walk in the park" trip report, I lead a group up Katahdin on 3/10/07.
In December, we had filed our paperwork with the park requesting permission to climb Katahdin as a dayhike for one day on each of 3 weekends in February. The first weekend, the weather was okay but not ideal so we delayed. Then, the weather shut us down. So we re-filed for three weekends in March. Again the weather was not good on the first weekend. Then, this past weekend, we had a window to climb. The ideal time - after the cold, and before the next rain storm, was falling in the middle of Friday night. We toyed with the idea of a late start on Friday, but knowing BSP's policy on getting done with the hike before dark - we opted for Saturday.
The Saturday weather forecast predicted Millinocket temps starting at 20 and going up to 35; Clouds all day with rain/sleet/snow in the afternoon. Time of arrival of the bad stuff was uncertain - maybe 1pm, maybe 3pm, maybe 6pm depending on the source.
We had a strong group of 8 that turned out to be two autonomous subgroups of 4. Nan and I were joined by Alex and Dennis (DMS). The second half of our group (the faster and stronger contingent) included Cath, Kathy, Tim, and Jon.
We met at 3:00, drove to Abol parking lot and started hiking at 3:50am by headlamp. The second half of the group started a little later because of a late arrival the night before (that's another story)
Snow conditions were excellent - nearly all bootable. 5 miles on the snomobiled trails and roads then onto the packed Abol trail. We tried using snowshoes from Abol campground to the slide, but it was quite frustrating as the trial was narrowly broken - only about 12" wide - so we took them off and booted it.
The slide was a mix of mostly exposed treadway (rocky trail) with some packed snow but no ice - essentially bootable. We used crampons for a short time in the beginning but eventually there was more rock than snow so we took them off.
During the climb up the slide, the sun beamed down on us and there was a light (10-20mph) breeze. The sky was full of picturesque high clouds. It was beautful, but the clouds foretold the coming weather.
At the top of the slide we (all 8 of us) met together. We continued on as two groups with one group heading over to Hamlin and Baxter and the other going to Baxter peak.
The tableland and the entire Katahdin massif were totally white. The route to the summit bootable with just one short slightly icy spot that could be avoided. We summited at 11:25 and stayed there to 11:55.
On the descent the wind kicked up to a steady 20+mph from the south and spindrift was getting blown across the tableland. It was getting a little more wild, but still quite nice by alpine standards. The cloudline was getting lower in the sky.
Once we were over the lip of the slide, we were in the lee. Sun and warmth predominated. More of the snow on the slide had melted off during the day. In some places the rock was wet to the touch.
On the roadwalk out, the front moved in. It started raining slightly at 3:25pm. Only as we arrived at the cars at 3:40, did the rain become more steady.
When Nan and I started winter climbing seven years ago, we started working on the 115 (my second round). It all came down to this one remaining peak. For a time is seemed like the weather was working against us. But time and patience gifted us with some great conditions.
It was a great hike for everyone, and a very special hike for Nan and me as we completed our winter 111 adventure. We wound up doing all of the peaks together - sharing the good and bad moments It's been a great journey with many fond memories.
In December, we had filed our paperwork with the park requesting permission to climb Katahdin as a dayhike for one day on each of 3 weekends in February. The first weekend, the weather was okay but not ideal so we delayed. Then, the weather shut us down. So we re-filed for three weekends in March. Again the weather was not good on the first weekend. Then, this past weekend, we had a window to climb. The ideal time - after the cold, and before the next rain storm, was falling in the middle of Friday night. We toyed with the idea of a late start on Friday, but knowing BSP's policy on getting done with the hike before dark - we opted for Saturday.
The Saturday weather forecast predicted Millinocket temps starting at 20 and going up to 35; Clouds all day with rain/sleet/snow in the afternoon. Time of arrival of the bad stuff was uncertain - maybe 1pm, maybe 3pm, maybe 6pm depending on the source.
We had a strong group of 8 that turned out to be two autonomous subgroups of 4. Nan and I were joined by Alex and Dennis (DMS). The second half of our group (the faster and stronger contingent) included Cath, Kathy, Tim, and Jon.
We met at 3:00, drove to Abol parking lot and started hiking at 3:50am by headlamp. The second half of the group started a little later because of a late arrival the night before (that's another story)
Snow conditions were excellent - nearly all bootable. 5 miles on the snomobiled trails and roads then onto the packed Abol trail. We tried using snowshoes from Abol campground to the slide, but it was quite frustrating as the trial was narrowly broken - only about 12" wide - so we took them off and booted it.
The slide was a mix of mostly exposed treadway (rocky trail) with some packed snow but no ice - essentially bootable. We used crampons for a short time in the beginning but eventually there was more rock than snow so we took them off.
During the climb up the slide, the sun beamed down on us and there was a light (10-20mph) breeze. The sky was full of picturesque high clouds. It was beautful, but the clouds foretold the coming weather.
At the top of the slide we (all 8 of us) met together. We continued on as two groups with one group heading over to Hamlin and Baxter and the other going to Baxter peak.
The tableland and the entire Katahdin massif were totally white. The route to the summit bootable with just one short slightly icy spot that could be avoided. We summited at 11:25 and stayed there to 11:55.
On the descent the wind kicked up to a steady 20+mph from the south and spindrift was getting blown across the tableland. It was getting a little more wild, but still quite nice by alpine standards. The cloudline was getting lower in the sky.
Once we were over the lip of the slide, we were in the lee. Sun and warmth predominated. More of the snow on the slide had melted off during the day. In some places the rock was wet to the touch.
On the roadwalk out, the front moved in. It started raining slightly at 3:25pm. Only as we arrived at the cars at 3:40, did the rain become more steady.
When Nan and I started winter climbing seven years ago, we started working on the 115 (my second round). It all came down to this one remaining peak. For a time is seemed like the weather was working against us. But time and patience gifted us with some great conditions.
It was a great hike for everyone, and a very special hike for Nan and me as we completed our winter 111 adventure. We wound up doing all of the peaks together - sharing the good and bad moments It's been a great journey with many fond memories.
(insert bowing icon here) 
