Moosilauke attempt 01/25/04

[stopher]

I’ve aborted climbs before. But never before have I faced the summit just a short distance away and had the mountain speak so directly to me:

“Go ahead. Try it if you want. You might make it. But make it or not, you’re gonna pay dearly if you keep going.”

I simply didn’t have enough face protection. My balaclava left a small portion of exposed upper cheek that stung like all get-out after 30 seconds of full exposure to the wind. Any attempt at adjustment immediately frosted up my glasses, leaving me effectively blinded.

When I was a little kid, my aunt Lena would pinch my cheeks and tell me how rosy and adorable they were. For the sake of my cheeks and the memory of Lena, I turned back and gratefully accepted the shelter of the stunted firs.

I respect and admire a mountain that puts me in my place. Moosilauke just rose a few notches on my list of favorites.

Thanks go to Cantdog, KenC and especially Mohamed for letting me tag along.

Two pictures.

 

[Mohamed Ellozy]

Ir was brutally cold even below treeline. At the trailhead in the morning the thermometer in my car read 10 below. When we returned a little after 2 PM it read 5 above.

At around 2,500 feet of elevation I felt that my nose was cold. I asked cantdog to examine it, and she reported a white spot. I noted a similar spot on hers, and we both donned some face protection 2,000 feet below treeline.

We reached treeline around noon, at that time Mount Washington had a temperature of 23 below and winds of 76 mph. The mountain will be there next year, make sure you are.

 

[Mark_151]

Don't feel bad! I've made 3 attempts on Mt. Adams, all in winter, and have gotten spanked back each time. In contrast, Every time I go up Washington, the weather is perfect. Even if it's hideous as I'm hiking up, by the time I get around Harvard Cabin altitude, winds drop and skies clear....

 

[JohnL]

We climbed the Osceolas today, predominantly from the leeward side. The wind was punishing even low on the trails but we had the shelter of the mountain to keep most of it at bay for us. There were spots of dead calm and we took advantage of them for a snack break and for changing clothes. On our drive up from Thornton, we commented on what the wind must be like up on the Moose. Now we know.

JohnL

 

[bogorchis]

Cold feet in Sorels?

Cantdog - I have had cold feet in Sorels and Koflachs; I bought a pair of winter boots from Salomon that keep my feet warmer, but I haven't tested them in severe cold. (Thinsulate lined) My Steger Mukluks are the warmest boot that I own, but they can only be used under certain conditions. They are great to wear with snowshoes, and I put my orthotics in them, and snowshoed into Roaring Brook bunkhouse in the winter - 12 miles on a very cold feet, and my feet were toasty. Of course, they don't take a crampon very well, so I still have my plastic boots!

 

[Jasonst]

Not that this helps in hindsight but my suggestion would have been to hike a mountain with a wooded summit... I was on Tecumseh and although it was bitterly cold, it was bearable. Good luck next time! I am sure March will offer warmer temps than January and you will still be in the Winter season.

 

[stopher]

Jason:

I empathise with cantdog because I know she really wanted this peak today. As for me, I think Mohamed couldn't have picked a better mountain. It was exhilerating, it put me right on the edge and I had a great time. If done intelligently, it's good to test your limits. That's the only way you will know what they are and it's the best way to learn how to increase them.

 

[KenC]

Stopher...

Yea, it was a great day, great meeting you, cantdog and mohamed! I kick myself for forgetting my camera!!! That pic of Mohamed would make a great winter avatar don't you think?

Cantdog,

Yea, it would have been great being so close to the summit to go on but don't let it get you down. You know how they say things come in threes

On your retreat, when you met Mohamed and i on our way up and mentioned that your face/head gear was not working adequately, and you were experiencing burning! That alone i thought was enough of a reason to abort. Add the high winds, ( with larger packs both Mohamed and I were getting bounced around in the wind) and it would get worse, the risk of being blown down and injured, it was the right decision for that day.

I was having fun, (don't let my quiet nature fool you) and being out exposed in those temps and winds was exhilirating! Yes, i think we could have made the summit, as Mohamed said it doesn't look life threatening, but i don't think it would have been an enjoyable trek.

Great day with a great small group...Some day for me to forget the camera!!

Ken

 

[SherpaKroto]

cantdog: good job! Both getting there, and getting back.

Mittens: I use almost exclusively FoxRiver double think wool mitts. They cost me $4.95 on sale at Hilton's. Over that, I use OR Basic Gore-Tex overmitts (that I seam sealed). They cost me $9.95 on sale at REI-Outlet. When it gets really cold, I add a pair of polypro liner gloves. I got those at New Balance outlet for $3.50. The longer you hike, the more deals you will find. Always keep looking, and buy it when it's on sale, regardless of season.

If you do not have overmitts (essential IMO) get the OR Modular Mitts with Liners at Mgear.com for $29.97. An absolute steal.

As for boots, when I was in NY, I Matt (or Chris) pointed out a pair of chemical footsoles - more comfortable thatn the toe warmers, and cover the entire footbed. I bought 2 sets that I will carry with me for the coldest days. They were about $4 for each pair.

Balaclava: I have been using an OR WS Gorilla balaclava. Sometimes I like it, sometimes I don't (the velcro needs to be adjusted just right). It is incredibly warm and wind proof, and is made of windstop fleece. I do like the fact that I can remove the mask easily, and keep the balaclava on. That should keep you warm.

 

[spencer]

Cantdog,

get a pair of the oversized wool mitts that Mohamed is wearing in the second picture Stopher posted.

I have severel pair of OR, Black Diamond, blah blah blah and my wool mitts are by far the warmest. Add an outer shell and you have a mitt for the days like you all had...

I'm glad you all made it home in one piece... I was skiing in the lowlands of Millinocket and was having trouble with exposed skin.

spencer

 

[Mohamed Ellozy]

get a pair of the oversized wool mitts that Mohamed is wearing in the second picture Stopher posted.

I would love to know where I can find such mittens today. The picture obviously does not show the hole in the outer layer on one thumb (the mittens are double layered) and they will soon need to be replaced.

A few years ago both outdoor shops in Boston and most general purpose shops up North stocked them, now I cannot find them anywhere.

Oops, I notice that in the post right above Spencer's Sherpa says that he found them at Hilton's will go there next time I am in Boston.

 

[KenC]

Mohamed,

A buddy of mine is in law enforcement and the mittens they issue are the double mitts you had. I'll find out where they get them and post or drop you a line. They are great mitts!!

Ken

 

[spencer]

Mine are actually from Eddie Bauer...but they are 15 years old.

I've seen them in many "general stores" including Dan & Whit's in Norwich, VT.

lot's of places up here in ME have them. They are often sold next to the leather overmitts that are designed to be their shell. I had a pair of those too, but lost them long ago.

spencer

 

[SherpaKroto]

Mohamed: FoxRiver makes them. If you have no luck try HERE or HERE

Gotta love those double thick ragg wools!

 

[sardog1]

Some suggestions for head and face protection in genuine Arctic conditions, for the benefit of any who might be unfamiliar with the same:

1. A hood that is sewn permanently to the jacket is preferred. Any other arrangement will let cold air in when Borealis blows his worst and you most need the protection.

2. A hood that is large enough to accommodate all the hats, balaclavas, masks, etc. that you might need to squeeze onto your noggin is preferred. You should be able to lather on the layers until you're adequately protected. The hood should also be capable of closing into a small tunnel-like opening, allowing only enough room for you to see out as needed. There should be a substantial flap on the hood to cover your lower face and neck, and you should be able to manipulate it wearing mittens. This hood type is one of the things that separates honest-to-God mountain parkas from the pretenders.

3. Goggles help a lot to keep your face warm. (I quit worrying about what people think about me wearing them "too much" a long time ago.) And yes, Virginia, unprotected eyes really do freeze shut sometimes in severe conditions.

4. A very thin balaclava or mask should be in your arsenal. It's used next to the skin, and in really tough conditions you can leave a small mouth opening in your other coverings that allows you to breathe out through this layer without freezing your lips.

5. And finally from the Department of Redundancies Department, a repetition of advice you've heard before: Keep the rest of your body warm, and your extremities will feel a warm glow, instead of the pain of freezing isolation. Lather on the layers. Drink the water (preferably warm, or at least tepid), before you want it. Keep moving, forward if it is safe to proceed, otherwise retreat, but do not stand around unnecessarily exposed. Keep dry. Blah, blah, blah.

 

[stopher]

Goggles help a lot to keep your face warm.

Amen, sardog. The lack of that one item is (IMO) what forced me to turn around.

 

[Mohamed Ellozy]

That pic of Mohamed would make a great winter avatar don't you think?

I have never been an avatar fan, but the picture Stopher took seemed so appropriate that I asked him to shrink it, and now I have my very own avatar!

When we were about five minutes up the trail I asked whether anyone had a camera. None of us did, but he had left his in his truck, so while we hiked up he ran down, got the camera, and rejoined us.

Thanks, Stopher!

 

[ytmountains]

Looking good Mohamed

 

[woodstrider]

Keep Hands Warm/Photo

Has anyone tried to use tight fitting rubber gloves as a base layer? Your hands will get damp, but it may be helpful. Be careful when taking these off in the cold.

Also, I loved the photo of Moosilauke, can't wait to try it myself. Thanks for posting the pix. Cheers