Whiteface Bushwack (NH), Feb 9, 2008

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una_dogger

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 29, 2005
Messages
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Location
The Hinterlands of North Central MA
Whiteface, elev. 4020

NH48 #39
NE67 # 53
NEHH #62
NE115 #100

The trip in a nutshell:

Jason, Leaf and I met up in N Lincoln friday night, our plans for a Bonds Traverse the following day dashed by the incoming weather conditions. We opted to climb Whiteface and Passaconnaway from the Kanc, up Downes Brook Tr and down Oliverian Brook Tr was the plan.

We drove over the Kanc Pass during a spectacular sunrise, spotted Jason's car at the Oliverian Brook TH, then drove to our starting TH. We hit the trail at 7:00 am and enjoyed a packed and broken out trail for the first ~3/4 mile of the Downes Brook Trail. The sun rose over Hedgehog Mnt as we hiked along and Leaf and I were happy, because, well, we haven't seen the sun in a while in the Greater Boston area!

Not having been in the area before, all we knew was that we'd be following the brook for about four miles until we met up with The Kate Sleeper Trail, and that there are generally ten spots along the trail where the brook is crossed. The broken out trail ended near a campsite where a sleepy looking camper was stirring about camp. From here we broke trail. Having no blazes to follow, we crossed where the grades seemed to naturally infer "cross here". There was about 8 inches of light powder on top of a very consolidated snowpack of about five-six feet. The breaking was easy for us, and I was glad because Leaf was shlepping two gallons of water in a training effort for her upcoming trip to Denali. (Go Leaf!)

The brook crossings were tricky and required concentration and a light foot. The snowbank caved in once when I crossed, and my left snowshoe and foot went down into the water. I was able to get up and out quickly without dislodging any more of the bank, and once again my Merrell Thermo 8 boots kept me dry and warm. :)

We reached a point 2.5 miles in where the brook divided in many areas. Not sure which branch to follow, we first went to the right in the steepest part of the divide. Jason began to cross, and freed a huge chunk of snowbank. The water was flowing deeply, even here at elevation 2300 feet. Jason was happy to be wearing his La Sportiva modified plastics, and he also stayed warm and dry. We aborted and moved to the East (left) side of the watershed. Here we continued to follow a branch of the brook, tediously moving along the banks. We climbed about 100 feet higher on the slope and followed the contour. Coming down from Passaconnaway's slopes on our left was the end of the small slide Rocksnrolls, MichaelJ and I had crossed up high a few weeks ago on the Passaconnaway Cutoff Trail. Its neat to "connect the dots" on the landscape, and I smiled and took a way point. I remembered thinking up high, "I wonder where this slide bottoms out". Now I knew. :)

Moving forward we hit a steep wall, and decided to push to the West (right) side of the watershed, where a finger of land was forming a ridge. We climbed to the top of the small ridge, where the woods were open and we could get a better view of the watershed in its entirety and consider our next move. Once on the ridge, we pulled our maps, my GPS and Jason's compass. At this point, we decided this was gonna be a 'whack of Whiteface!!! Yeehaw! We climbed the ridge that we dubbed, "The Devil's Finger". We began our bushwack at elevation 2362ft and climbed up along the ridge for approximately 1.4 miles before topping out on a false summit on the northern end of Whiteface at elevation 3735ft.

The woods were mixed, spruce and yellow birch. The snowpack was deep and consolidated, making the breaking as easy as it was on the trail. We climbed up the contours making a southeasterly sweep, sometimes leveling and following the contour, other times climbing. We reached an open and fairly exposed area at 2882 ft and chose to push upward. We were aiming for the Rollins Trail in a saddle about 1/3 mile south of Whiteface's summit, but had to cut up and east. (later we saw why the slope got so steep there...stay tuned).

Jason and Leaf, the ridge is nice and open
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And then....the spruce got thick. The temperatures were steady all day in the upper 20's, getting warmer as the afternoon went on, a good thing, because we were getting wet. As we pushed upward, we encountered ledges that we circumnavigated or climbed, depending on the availability of good trees to hug. Finally, some sunlight broke and a good sized headwall stood out in front of us. Jason was ahead of us and scrambled up first, there was a perfectly placed spruce to hug, climb up, and park your butt on and one by one we scaled the wall. Little Terra Firma just bee-bopped up it with a big smile on her face.

Wow. What a view. Passaconnay to our our left. Big mountain that Passaconnaway, I seem to never get much closer than this to it on both this and my recent attempt. It was awesome to see it, and The Sleepers and The Fool Killer from this perspective. The Tripyramids beyond had their summits obscured in heavy cloud cover. We were on a small northern summit of Whiteface, and we felt awesome! Woot! Now to get to the Rollins Trail or the true summit, whichever came first. Deeeeeep spruce up there. Definately spruce trap territory but we moved carefully and close together as we had all day, and we didn't find any. We kept moving south but then bumbled a bit and got turned north for about five steps as we began to drop a bit and once again the maps, compass and GPS came out and we took a little navigational pow-wow. Quickly we corrected, dropped south, and bingo! The Rollins Trail, and it was broken out, and it was 13:15. Nice progress!

West from "North Whiteface"
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We were about 3/4 mile from the Whiteface Summit and after pulling off wet hardshells and getting into warm fleeces and softshells, we pushed on. I have done about three bushwacks prior to this one and I collectively feel really ready to find the trail towards the end and then sooo happy to be on one when its found. Today was no different, but I definately felt my confidence has increased with each 'whack; and today I was especially proud of the efforts of our little rag tag group. Frequent communication, clear decision making, mutual respect for the skill level each member brought with them, and supportive concern for each member made this challenge a pleasure and a complete success. Thanks, guys!

Jason leads, watching out for Spruce Traps (out of sequence, below headwall on N Summit)
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We summitted Whiteface and decided we would head back down to Downe's Brook, leaving Passaconnaway for another day. A couple of reasons, we were getting tired, we had gotten wet, and we really wanted to close our loop and see what we had wacked up.

The Kate Sleeper Trail was not broken out but was blazed and easy to follow. Soon we came to the Downe's Brook Tr junction, and began working our way down this rugged watershed. Many, many tedious crossings and we are not sure if we were ever on the "true trail" but carefully picked our route to keep us out of the water. Huge boulders make up the brook which was flowing strong at its origin, and deepend as it flowed downslope as brooks will do...with this being winter, it was interesting to observe so much water.

I eluded to a steep open spot on our bushwack. We knew the Downe's Slide was in the general area, but we were *amazed* when we were coming down the Downe's Brook Tr and saw it careening down from the ridge we'd wacked. Pretty wide slide. Interesting how our day had unfolded, how we'd picked our line up the ridge, and had managed to avoid the slide, prolly crossing turning east and up somewhere just above the top of the slide. (if anyone has any waypoints on the origin of the slide, please pm me, I'd love to add it to my tracklog.) Way cool. Wacking is fun. This was Leaf's first bushwack! I told her, "<quote> 'there are two states of being..on trail...and off trail'...I said that! <end quote>". We all laughed. Then refocused our attention on negotiating the brook, often climbing small "fingers" of land to avoid it.

After what felt like more than an hour on the Downe's Brook Trail we saw our initial tracks diverging off to the east, we had closed the loop! (well, sorta, we still had to get to that side of the brook!). We stayed on this side of the brook, though, and found the "true trail". Some more tedious crossings and we were back on an easy grade. Hiking on we enjoyed some great conversation; some deep "life talk" and some reminiscent Catskill conversation. Jason has been 'wacking the untrailed peaks on the CAT3500 list this winter and really honing his skills with map and compass, and recently becoming the proud owner of a Garmin 60sxc (?).

The headlamps came on for the last mile, and we broke out of the woods at 6:15, about 11 hours and ~14 miles later. A snowy ride over the Kancamangus Pass, back to a warm hotel for dry clothes and dinner for Terra, then out to the Woodstock Inn for brews, food, and tunes.

A GREAT day out in the woods!

Thanks to Leaf and Jason !
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edited to say, we all wished out loud that today's snowstorm will cover our tracks! Not sure too many would appreciate following our trail to Whiteface.
 
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una_dogger, that was some nutshell. fantastic trip report!! i almost enjoyed reading it as much as the hike! hehe. thanks for writing it.

i had a super time. i think all the decisions we made on the trail (and off the trail) were good ones. both of you guys have great navigational skills in the woods between using the GPS and map and compass and reading the land. saying that i appreciated it is an understatement. this hike will go in the memory banks for a long time for me. :D

i'll lug up two gallons of water for you guys anytime. :D

my pictures from the hike are at my new smugmug site!
 
Cool!

You guys are too hardcore! Fun I'm sure, for your younger legs. Can MJ make a map from your way points? I'd love to see one. Great job! Great TR and pics. I love Leaf's shot of Passaconaway. If you had done the other hike you had planned for this weekend, would Leaf have still carried 2 gallons of water? I'm glad you chose something else when I saw the weather report.

KDT
 
Kevin said:
Can MJ make a map from your way points? I'd love to see one. KDT


Definately going to ask him to do so when he returns from skiing in Utah :D

I may play around with Google Earth and try to do it myself....ahem...although I am really supposed to be getting my taxes done today!

:rolleyes:

We missed having you guys along!
 
Nice report. Thanks! There's a lot of interesting terrain in the Downes Book area that tends to get overlooked, especially in winter. But some of the ten brook crossings can be pretty obscure. The slide is certainly spectacular, with a number of car-sized boulders near the bottom. I've been up along the right side of the slide, but not in winter.
 
psmart said:
There's a lot of interesting terrain in the Downes Book area that tends to get overlooked, especially in winter. But some of the ten brook crossings can be pretty obscure. The slide is certainly spectacular, with a number of car-sized boulders near the bottom. I've been up along the right side of the slide, but not in winter.

Thanks for the info! I'm not sure I want to spend another winter saturday trying for Passaconnaway, but if I do, maybe this time I'll head up the traditional Dicey's Mill route from Ferncroft, and perhaps check out Chocourua after lunch!

As Leaf noted in her awesome photo album (thanks Leaf!), she's got her eye on the Downe's Slide. I have heard a bit about it, and also a little rumor that a loving soul takes gentle care of it in the summertime. ;) Might be worth a visit next summer. I imagine the water through the Downe's Brook area makes for a magical sight.
 
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una_dogger said:
she's got her eye on the Downe's Slide.
Nice trip reports (an pics) on the Downes Slide can be found in the 2 volume set of "Our Mountain Trips" from about 100 years ago.

I enjoyed breaking trail through there in winter but have yet to get back to see it without snow. It's in my plans. :)
 
carole said:
Nice trip reports (an pics) on the Downes Slide can be found in the 2 volume set of "Our Mountain Trips" from about 100 years ago.

)

Funny I just so happened to purchase that book today at the Mountain Wanderer on our way out of town! I am not sure if I got the first or second volume, but I will have to look! (I was inspired by our hike to purchase a couple of books on White Mountain history!)
 
Kevin said:
I love Leaf's shot of Passaconaway. If you had done the other hike you had planned for this weekend, would Leaf have still carried 2 gallons of water?

Thanks! Yeah, I was planning on carrying the water on whatever we hiked that day. Got my pack weight to about 40 lbs.
When we started getting into the thick of the bushwhack I emptied one gallon and then emptied the other on the Rollins Trail, to save my knees on the descent.
 
Nice TR and pics!

I think Royswkr is correct. There are two slides on Mt. Passaconaway that bottom out along the Downes Brook. The second one is that wide one. I've explored that and it appears to be fairly young, with lots of loose rock. This one is the more visible of the two, especially in winter, from the DBT.

The first one is the slide with an abandoned trail. The DBT crosses the stream which drains down the slide. Follow the stream and you'll soon see a FS sign that explains the illegality of trail maintenance. You'll see a few old, fading blazes. There are many pretty falls over all the ledges. Further up, the old trail is just into the woods on the right side of the slide, and it has been maintained.

Here's a view from Mt. Potash of this slide. There are two slides up high that join...

downesslide.jpg




This view also shows the other, wide slide, or at least part of it, to the right (west).

potashd.jpg




happy trails :)
 
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Yeah! Thanks, FN and Roy!

Forestgnome, we saw that sign. At that point we had been travelling along the east side of the brook in a gullied area and then we encountered the sign, which seemed misplaced and out of know-where. We didn't notice the smaller slide. We did continue up the same side of the bank and after some distance, we came upon the larger slide in your second picture. We then climbed the small ridge forming on the west side of that sub-basin.

So, the old trail there goes up and joins the Passaconnaway Cutoff Trail?? Interesting........

Thanks for your pictures, they are really helpful.

:D
 
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una_dogger said:
So, the old trail there goes up and joins the Passaconnaway Cutoff Trail?? Interesting........
If you look at the AMC Trail Guide Map you will see what looks like a dead end spur that comes off the cut off from the summit. The book also makes mention of it as a short side trip to a view (I assume it is the top of the slide). This is where the trail used to come up.

Brian
 
una_dogger said:
Definately going to ask him to do so when he returns from skiing in Utah :D

Oh, sure! Let's do this tonight and get a Google Earth image and a map posted.
 
UNH Historic Map shows old trails pretty well

UNH Historic Map from 1958 shows old trails pretty well. It shows big wide slide (called Downs Brook Slides?) and old Passaconaway Slide Trail. Route finding problem is to pick which stream to walk up Passaconaway Slide when you're donw there on the ground. I looked at Google Earth when this was first discussed and the big wide slide shows up pretty plainly on Google Earth. Google Earth is so awesome. It's like being able to fly over the mountains from comfort of home. It's great for looking at slides.

http://docs.unh.edu/NH/choc58nw.jpg
 
I love Google Earth too! It's good for taking virtual vacations while stuck in your cubicle. :cool: I can see all three slides we saw on the trail with it.
 
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