TR: Washington State Wanderings Vol. 2 - kayaking, rock, mountains

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cbcbd

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Kayaking, rock climbing, mountaineering stuff that has been going on.
Warning, it is pretty long and not necessarily chronological since I want to leave the best for last ;)

Reference map


Leavenworth Rock climbing (B)

Found a post on CascadeClimbers from a guy looking to get into trad and glacier stuff. I hadn't yet done much rock and hadn't found a partner yet to do some trad so I sent him a PM.

Alex and I meet up to climb at Vertical World downtown and since we got along pretty well we made plans to head to Leavenworth for some trad cragging and to practice some trad techniques, etc...

Leavenworth is a faux Bavarian looking town ready to reel in tourists, but it is also one great place to find good granite to climb around here.
We decide to head to the low approach and very cool looking Peshastin Pinnacles park. The climbing here is mostly slab with few cracks and many tri-cam eating huecos. We climbed two climbs here on the main Martian slab rock. Diagonal and Direct. We spent a lot of time going over gear placement, anchors, rope management, and just little things here and there. Diagonal was an easy 6 with a long diagonal crack which actually took pro... good. Direct was a more fun 8 (I possibly took the 9 variation at the end)... bolts for most of the blank face and good friction climbing all the way.

After Peshastin we didn't have much daylight left but I could feel Alex wanted to get his first trad lead in... so we headed to Castle Rock, a nice rock right next to highway 2 with 4-5 pitch climbs up it. Here Alex asked me at the bottom of the initial 5.6 chimney if he could take the lead. Sure! And so with that Alex got his first trad lead! :) After following the first pitch, noting that we'd have time for no more pitches, and seeing his 7-8 piece wacky anchor!, we decided to head down from there and go over some more anchor building on the ground :)

It was a great day out on the rock and long overdue (first day since getting out here). Alex and I got along great and already started planning future trips.

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2807821490064115915YwaJQa

Blake Island Kayaking (C)

My gf doesn't get too much time off so we decided to take a quick overnighter to Blake Island. Because of the time we decided to take the mid-length way to get there, which involved taking a ferry to Vashon island (F) and launching from right next to the ferry landing... maybe 1h30m from there to the Camp on the Northwestern shore of Blake.

Got to camp just in time to enjoy the sunset over the Olympic mountains and then proceeded to kick myself for forgetting to pack the fuel pump for my Whisperlite stove :rolleyes: The ranger was very cool and gave us some leftover coal from other campers!

Next morning with a lazy start we walked around the area a little bit and took in some entertaining views, like a different view of the
Seattle skyline, some low tide life (geoducks, anemones, etc), and a "sailor" who forgot to check his tide tables and his charts :D (they were at least 1-2hrs from low tide when the pic was taken... at least 6-8hrs more to wait to get out).

We then paddled back to Vashon on the Eastern side of the island, stopping shortly at Tillicum Village for a quick (VERY quick - cold!!) swim and to get some of their bread. Loaded the car up and conveniently there is a Mexican restaurant right next to the ramp/ferry. There we had huge margaritas which effectively put us out completely for the ferry waiting and the ferry ride :D

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/566427096YpwdKV


Cypress Island in the San Juans Kayaking (B, D)

So I recently celebrated my 18th birthday , and after registering to vote, Kristia and I headed north to Anacortes and the gateway to the San Juan islands.

Original plans were to paddle from Anacortes to Cypress Island on Friday, camp, paddle more around Cypress, camp, head back on Sunday. Because of some strong W winds and arriving too late to time it right with the tidal currents we decided to head South to Deception Pass (D) and camp at the park. Deception pass is very famous for its strong currents through the pass, making tons of rips and eddies everywhere. Lots of kayakers head there to play in the currents and sometimes standing waves. Seeing the insane current action below us just wetted my appetite and I want to head back there and play someday! We headed to the park and made our Pad Thai dinner, enjoyed the sunset and went back to camp...

Next day we left to Harbor park (G) to launch. We cross the Guemes channel and head West along the shore during slack and then some grueling paddling against the flood tide to get around the bend to Bellingham channel between Guemes and Cypress (we started too late and so the timing was off). We crossed Bellingham channel, which now was getting the flood tide North and currents were flowing fast. As we got near Cypress Head (B), the narrow point of the channel, the currents were pulling us fast North, threatening to push us past the head (although if it had we could've eddied out on the North side of the head). We toughed it out and made it near the shore and the safety of the back eddy. Very cool camping spot and really quite empty. We got what I thought was the best site and could even see a little of Mt Baker! That evening we went for a hike up nearly 1000' of elevation on the island and saw things like tons of banana slugs, an abandoned truck, and an old airstrip with some views to the other islands. The fast currents made the ocean sound like a river, but as the tides slacked overnight it got very peaceful.

Next day we timed it much better with the tidal currents and headed South on Bellingham during the last of the ebb and some of the slack and then picked up the flood going East into Guemes channel and back to the launch.

The next two days we spent hanging out in Anacortes, gorging ourselves on blackberries that you'd find everywhre, enjoying the views from Cap Sante (H), playing gigantic chess, and hanging out at Washington Park (I) where we had been camping.

It was really nice out on the islands. I would really like to go back and do a multi day kayaking trip and island hop.

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/566421587IOtNOP?start=0
 
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Rainier, take one (D)

So, some time ago I remember joining VFTT and seeing SK's avatar of Rainier, and reading TRs of folks going there... man, these folks were pretty hardcore. It seemed like I was years away from the level of many folks here (well, I guess it did take years for Rainier). It seemed like everyone had done Rainier and they were all organizing it themselves! I'd hear names of features being thrown around like common households items and I'd just be lost... Well, I guess as things happened Giggy invited me on a trip out West last year to climb Adams. The reports from that trip are around, but needless to say it was an amazing time with an amazing group of people. I really do owe it to Giggy for reaching out and including me in the group, especially in the last minute as I was being really flaky about the whole thing before then. He's a great guy and an excellent "trip organizer"... as he likes to call himself.

But anyway... now after my first trip out West and trying to convince myself that I had no express interest in climbing Rainier... well, when I saw it from the airport last year on the way out, I wanted it. And then more and more VFTTers were climbing it and the monkey on my back grew heavier and heavier... I wanted it before the end of the season and so I did what a desperate climber would do - I whored myself out online for a partner :D

First guy sounded real excited, wanted to do it in two days (fine) and was psyched!! No word from him until the week before and, "sorry, I have some stuff going on"... so I'm scrambling to find someone, had basically given up on Rainier for the weekend and was thinking of other plans... Friday night this guy from Vancouver, BC calls saying he's interested, has climbed Baker, can drive over tomorrow to start the climb... ok lets go.

Anyway, I'm not going to go into a lot of details because it just felt like it went all too fast... he arrived late at my place so we left Paradise way later than planned, arrived at Muir at 7:30pm, I was melting snow/making dinner until 10pm, we got up at 2am and left at 3am. I didn't really have time to enjoy Muir since I wanted to finish stuff off and get to sleep. The route was very dry, lots of rock on the Gap/DC, the weather was perfect, the climb not that long... took about 7hrs? The descent was fine, got back hungry and thirsty (partner ran out of food and water) and after a short nap got ready to head back down to Paradise before it got too late... arrived at Paraside at 7pm...

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/565037441HoxkRG

Although we summitted, got great views, had no dire issues... it just felt a little empty to have the process go that fast and with someone I had just met for my first time up Rainier - probably kinda like losing your virginity to some stranger you met at the bar.

So in that case you want to "make right", correct?

Which brings us to:

Rainier, take two
After our Leavenworth climbing, Alex and I were discussing climbs we wanted to do. He was only around until September on an internship and really wanted to get up Rainier, but also wanted to learn about glacier travel, crevasse rescue etc. So we made plans to climb Rainier and met before at my place to go over technical rope work, making different haulings systems, different knots, the whole thing... he was really eating it all up and really wanted to pull his own weight, which I thought was awesome enthusiasm!

We left on Friday and slept in the car (ssshh) inside the park. Saturday we continued to Paradise and the start of a very nice clear day. We got our permits and started heading up to Muir, getting there in a little less than 4 hours (Alex, the fitter animal, wanted to make sure to break 4 hours).

With plenty of time this time around, we tented on the Cowlitz as opposed to staying in the bunkhouse. We took some time to dig a nice living area while also working on the water melting and other chores. After done with those we headed to the Cowlitz to do some real practicing near some real crevasses. As a 2 person team, Alex wanted to get some first hand practice of what it would feel like to have to self arrest your mate and build an anchor while in that awkward position. So I found a nice rollover I could toss myself over and we spent the next hour doing that. I have to say, you learn A LOT from doing that.

My cutoff for practice was 7pm. So that came along and we had rice and chicken. Oh, and did I mention the views!? I wanted to be in bed by 8, it was more like 8:45pm. We got up at 11:30pm and were on route by 1am (the dude packs slooow).
Rainier had gotten some snow the week before and so the DC got a refreshing and the conditions were Excellent! Most of the rocky choss on the Gap was replaced by snow and the DC route, instead of following lots of rocks to the East and then dropping down into the Southern face of the cleaver for the rest of the way, we could stay on snow and stay on the ridge.
Oh yeah, and at the top of the DC, at ~12400' I saw a mouse. Yeah, that dot. He was just hanging around, I guess. I want to know what outerwear layering system he uses.

So anyway, it was a windy day from here on. Probably somewhere between 30-40mph with some higher gusts here and there and shooting ice particles in your face. Visibility was still great so it was a lot of fun! We got to the crater and then I spent was seemed like ages inside a closed vent hole trying to get rid of the mexican dinner from 2 days ago! After that great experience we headed up to Columbia Crest, where the wind was kinda strong for standing up for too long. We took our summit shots, signed the register on the way down and then realized that we were the only ones in the crater!! Very cool. (Some rain/snow was coming in later from the West, so folks were prob leaving asap)

We headed down fast and efficiently, with views as far as Jefferson and made it down to Muir around noon.

Packed stuff up, started heading down and still north of McClure rock it started raining and the mountain top was completely socked in! Great timing anyway as another period of rain/snow began for a whole week.

We stopped at the burger place right outside the gate for some overpriced grub and then headed back home. Now it really feels like I got to experience the mountain and hope other VFTTers get to do so too (I already know of some who will soon ;) ). Now that I'm more familiar with it I can start planning trips up Liberty, Kautz, Ptarmigan, etc... and now I'm just a little closer to being like SK - I just gotta get my drumming chops up to par :)
 
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Great reading Doug....I'm so jealous!

Leavenworth is a wicked fun town, was there many years ago while travelling through the Cascades.

I can relate to finding rock climbing partners, but i managed to find a jewell of one in Banff last week and got some sweet climbs in.

I will have my Bugaboo pics up soon!!

I may have to find my way back up to Washington..hmmm

Darl
 
leaf said:
get out the futon... i'm moving in.
Give me a month and you'll have one ;)

Darl58 said:
I will have my Bugaboo pics up soon!!

I may have to find my way back up to Washington..hmmm
Nice! Well, you know you'd have a partner over here :)

giggy said:
Nice report doug - congrats on your 2 rainier summits! :D
Thanks gig... you got me into this game, man ;)
 
Chip said:
Congrats Doug, you're ripping it up out there ! Please don't ever refer to us as "The Least Coast", though !



I blame him as well. ;)



sniff sniff - and you all get out more and climb things twice as hard as me now.... sniff sniff.
 
Chip said:
Congrats Doug, you're ripping it up out there ! Please don't ever refer to us as "The Least Coast", though !
No way!! I talk up the EC as much as I can!! But alas... most folks out here don't really get my blabberings
:rolleyes:
 
Some wicked cool trips CBCBD! Some day I'd love to kayak some of the San Juans... I kind of know somebody who lives over there on one of the Subaru forums I'm on.

Jay
 
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