Trail Tools

[DougPaul]

A chain saw with parts and fuel may be heavier but more compact and a lot of people have rigs designed to carry them. Besides I learned at chainsaw class that you get your required assistant to carry the saw so you arrive rested

Or you claim to have a bum leg so she has to carry her own chainsaw...

(Besides, she hikes faster than I do...)

I have seen a packframe modified to carry a chainsaw, but it wasn't useful for carrying anything else. Debi made a bandoleer strap from 2-inch webbing to help carry the saw while wearing a standard pack. Her saw is ~13lbs IIRC.

Doug

 

[Elizabeth]

I adore my Fiskar "Power Gear" Loppers. They are super light-weight and cut through branches and stems of up to 2" like a hot knife through butter. (Advertized as cutting up to 1.5" diameter; but I have found they will work on slightly bigger stuff.) Well worth paying a bit extra for; but you can find them on sale if you look around.

http://www2.fiskars.com/Products/Ya...PowerGear/PowerGear-R-2-Bypass-Lopper-17-Inch

 

[DougPaul]

I adore my Fiskar "Power Gear" Loppers.

Speaking of loppers, I recommend bypass loppers over anvil loppers for trail work. If you get a nick in the blade (which you will...), the bypass loppers will continue to work much better than will the anvil loppers.

Doug

 

[TrailwrightBratt]

Patrol.

Both Jason and Craig are correct. It all depends on what level you are working at. I add where is important too.Distance from the trail head as example. So to keep it simple I would like to add mt 2 $ worth.
Lets start at the beggining of the season and that would be your patrol of your adopted trail. You are looking to clean waterbars and drainages,remove blow downs and make an assesment of the trails needs for the future,ie Condition of signs or missing ones blazing, new erosion problems etc.
In keeping with what I think is the question of which tools work best. There is NO answer only opinions and you know, that just like ........... everyone has one.
You can only determine what works best for you and that comes from TRAINING and experience. You are getting some good info in this thread and it certainly can be expanded on for each level of work and experience.
My Opinion... To clean water bars i use almost exclusivly an OLD garden hoe with a shortened handle. The blade is 81/2" wide, newer ones are 6",and hazel hoes are 6". It was given to me by Dennis C. years ago and I won't leave home without it.I also own three others. I laughed when he gave it to me but I love it.Others have laughed too but they don't when watching me use it. It is very Light weight and sharp. It will cut thrue the compacted soil very easily and that usualy is only a couple feet wide at most.The rest is very soft and easy to move.Saves me the weight of a shovel which is also a good tool. I don't need to go into details as to how to do the work there are many good manuals avilable. Another Thread?
The second tool is a pair of Standard size Loppers for small branches,or anything else Needing cutting. I prefer anvil type over By -pass. they are more rugged and do not bend compared to by-pass that once bent, hardly ever retain the cutting ability. They cut as well as anvils but improper use bends them easily.Or any other tool improperly used. (Training again).
The third and final is a toss up between a 30" or 21" bow saw. If you have not been on your trail a 30'' may be better. It can handle most blowdowns that should be taken out by and adopter,usualy in the 10'' or 12'' limit.If in doubt leave it for a more skilled person.
As you have already read there are so many options and all are good.You decide. What is your limit to what you can carry.What I use is sufficient for a patrol.
One thing Craig mentions and i agree totaly and was going to add is the use of straps and the way he suggests using them. I have been using them for years and are a part on my pack so to speak. So I guess it is 4 things rather than 3.
I would like to comment on the Chainsaw vs.the Cross cut vs. Axe. All need experience for safety. However I must say from my years using all three, is the C/S is definatly faster than the C/C and the C/C is faster than the Axe.Who knows wich is easier with so many variables.
It ALL depends on how much is to be done and Where and your qualifications,and again how much you want to carry.. They all have their good points and all have their Bad ones. A good subject for another thread doncha- think.

 

[Jason Berard]

Excellent thread!

As most have already said there are a lot of variables....
That said, I mostly use
hand pruners (bypass)
loppers (bypass)
a fanno fl-1700 hand pruning saw
an axe ( lots of room for discussion as to what axe is best)
webbing as has been discussed by Craig and Hal. It is magic!
and a SHARP round ended-long handled shovel.

 

[DougPaul]

Speaking of loppers, I recommend bypass loppers over anvil loppers for trail work. If you get a nick in the blade (which you will...), the bypass loppers will continue to work much better than will the anvil loppers.

The second tool is a pair of Standard size Loppers for small branches,or anything else Needing cutting. I prefer anvil type over By -pass. they are more rugged and do not bend compared to by-pass that once bent, hardly ever retain the cutting ability. They cut as well as anvils but improper use bends them easily.

FWIW, I have used a short-handled anvil lopper and a long-handled bypass lopper. The anvil lopper has been used fairly lightly, but the blade became nicked (probably something hard got caught in the jaws) and does not work nearly as well as when the blade was undamaged. In contrast, the bypass loppers have been heavily used (sometimes to their size limit (~2 in)), have never bent, and continue to work well.

Take your choice.

Doug

 

[Creag Nan Drochaid]

Bypass vs. anvil

All the loppers and hand pruners my crews use are of the bypass type. They get shown how to use them properly (straight cut, never twist), the single bevel on the blade is much easier to keep sharp, the hook fits into tight spruce branches, and if you keep the hook below the branch and the blade above it, the weight of the branch opens the cut further the more you cut into it. Also the anvil bolt can get loose and disappear into the forest if you didn't check it for tightness regularly, which is another thing to have to remember...
Creag nan drochaid

 

[Raven]

FWIW, I carry:

1. Hand Loppers

2. 18" Pruning Saw, similar to a Fanno. Cheaper, not as well made, and wider blade, but gets the job done adequately.

3. Bypass Loppers

4. Axe, especially early in the season. Personal preference. The ultimate in tree cutting reliability. Nothing ever goes wrong with an axe that ends up hurting the axe. Nothing snaps, runs out, falls off, breaks, needs tightening, fiddling with, etc. It needs to be sharpened periodically. One downside is that you need the room to swing.

5. Short Handle Hoe

6. Safety Glasses, Gloves, Slightly beefed up first aid kit expecting more cuts and potential for "axe-idents."

 

[TrailwrightBratt]

Proof

Like I said Opinions are like...everyone has one.Thank God for the freedom to express them.Really good fun thread.
What is next?

 

[roadtripper]

Thanks for the excellent tips & advice everyone!

In addition to the awesome information above, I also recently read the AMC's book on Trail Building & Maintenance. Has anyone else read that? I can't believe how helpful that book was. Seems like it is the number one book on the topic.

I also wanted to throw in my opinion that Snow & Nealley axes from Maine are absolutely top-notch. They might just be the highest quality axes on the market.

I'll be picking up a Rogue hoe since it was so highly recommended here and by others on the web. Also picked up a Sven folding saw (21inch). That was a great recommendation as well (it was also extremely well reviewed on several websites).

Thanks again.

 

[DougPaul]

In addition to the awesome information above, I also recently read the AMC's book on Trail Building & Maintenance. Has anyone else read that? I can't believe how helpful that book was. Seems like it is the number one book on the topic.

Yes I have a copy. I also found it to be very informative.

Also picked up a Sven folding saw (21inch). That was a great recommendation as well (it was also extremely well reviewed on several websites).

I've had my Sven for ~35 years and have used it fairly heavily for trail clearing in the last 5 or so years--an oldie but goody. I also have a small (7 inch blade) Gerber folding saw. http://www.rei.com/product/730550 The Sven cuts much faster, but the small saw fits in my pocket and is faster to set up--I use the Sven unless there are only a few small cuts to be made.

If you are fumble fingered, it may be worth picking up a spare wing-nut or two. And the corners on the end away from the wing-nut (when folded) are a bit sharp--I suggest that you round them with a file or cover them with duct tape. Also, if you clean and oil the blade every now and then it can last for quite many years. (I'm still using my original blade. Spares are available.)

FWIW, I have used both rip and crosscut blades on the Sven. IMO, the rip blade generally cuts a bit faster, but both work well.

Doug

 

[cooperhill]

Thanks for the excellent tips & advice everyone!

I also wanted to throw in my opinion that Snow & Nealley axes from Maine are absolutely top-notch. They might just be the highest quality axes on the market.

I'll be picking up a Rogue hoe since it was so highly recommended here and by others on the web. Also picked up a Sven folding saw (21inch). That was a great recommendation as well (it was also extremely well reviewed on several websites).

Thanks again.

Nice! Snow & Neally are good axes. I found that I had to take down the cheeks quite a bit to get it to cut really well. A C clamp to hold that axe down and a good Mill Bastard file will do the job.

As seen here:

Here is an essential resource for maintaining axes -"An axe to grind":

http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/fspubs/99232823/index.htm

 

[Raven]

It ALL depends on how much is to be done and Where and your qualifications,and again how much you want to carry.. They all have their good points and all have their Bad ones.

Excellent point.

These may be my favorite style of thread as they shine a light on everyone's knowledge and experience and put it all out there for everyone to see.

Personally, I get some great ideas from these threads and will absolutely be looking into a few new options (e.g hazel hoes).

I love to hear opinions and there's no shortage of those around here. The "mountain community" is filled with strong-willed, opiniated, no BS, thick-skinned, good hearted people. I view that as a positive in a world increasingly filled with people far too easily offended, afraid to speak their minds, and lacking the strength to stand alone when necessary. I'm sometimes reminded of how strong of a "group of individuals" this is. Good to be a part of it and good to hear what everyone has to say.

OK, waxing thread drift off...

Chris, thanks for the axe grinding resource - great quote by Lincoln. Very wise man.

Related question that may shed some more light - when do you do your first maintenance trip?

 

[Creag Nan Drochaid]

Spring patrol ASA snow's gone

Spring patrol for blowdowns and drain cleaning as soon as the snow is off the trail. In places, already. Today, 0830h Pitcher Mtn parking lot on Monadnock-Sunapee Greenway...
Creag nan drochaid

 

[RoySwkr]

Related question that may shed some more light - when do you do your first maintenance trip?

When my mother had a trail, one winter there was a big blowdown and we went in on snowshoes to get started - some were buried in snow and left till spring

My section has unimproved road access so I wait till after mud season which is probably too late

One April I climbed Mt Jackson and partway up it was really muddy with water running down the trail and waterbars overflowing - I really felt the adopter should get right on it. But in another quarter mile there was continuous snow cover and digging would have been unreasonable. If you have a trail with different terrain or lots of vertical relief, you will need to go every day or at least every week to hit things at "optimum".

 

[MadRiver]

One April I climbed Mt Jackson and partway up it was really muddy with water running down the trail and waterbars overflowing - I really felt the adopter should get right on it. But in another quarter mile there was continuous snow cover and digging would have been unreasonable. If you have a trail with different terrain or lots of vertical relief, you will need to go every day or at least every week to hit things at "optimum".

My trail, Webster Cliff, has to be done in sections come spring. The lower section, below the hairpin turn by the large boulders, is free of snow first, while the upper section retains the snow longer.

 

[Raven]

My trail, Webster Cliff, has to be done in sections come spring. The lower section, below the hairpin turn by the large boulders, is free of snow first, while the upper section retains the snow longer.

MadR -

This was my experience on Ammo Ravine last year. First trip in spring (end of April I think) I was able to do some work on the lower half. Came back to get the upper half later.

And Roy I agree about multiple days needed early - I hope to get an extra two days in early in the season if I can to stay ahead of the game.

Creag - yes, it looks like it's about time to get started again...

I'll try some webbing out this year as well.

 

[Jason Berard]

Another good resource for trail maintenance techniques is the AT Fieldbook.
I recently found a pdf version here:
http://blueandwhitecrew.org/files/Fieldbook.pdf

 

[arghman]

you've missed mentioning the bark spud -- not something to be used for most trail maintenance tasks, but if you were building bridges out of logs, it's a good thing to help remove bark.

I have fond memories of peeling bark off a freshly-cut sugar maple log + its damp wooden core, near Little Lyford Camps while midges were swarming around.

 

[TrailwrightBratt]

Bark Spud

Ahrgman: Good point about the Bark Spud and yes very handy peeling logs.Jack and June Liberman once peeled a large tree in ONE piece and tied it to the top of their Subaru wagon to take it home. That was quite a sight to see!!!.