The Knife Edge 8/5/11

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Kevin Judy and Emma

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The Knife Edge

Baxter State Park / Pamola 4919' / The Knife Edge / Baxter Peak 5267'

Chimney Pond Trail / Helon Taylor Trail / Knife Edge / Saddle Trail

Roughly 9.6 Miles 4000' Elevation gain

Dennis, Kevin, Laurie, Mike, Rick, picked up Kit and Kat along the way (Wendy, Mike and Steve also crossed the Knife Edge this day, but we didn't meet up)

My long awaited return to Baxter. It had been twelve years since my first and only trip in '99. At the time I (we) were pretty green in the mountains. We made it to Pamola, but took the Dudley Trail down to Chimney Pond in the heat and the bugs. This time I was almost thwarted by the weather again, but outlasted it. It poured Tuesday as I reached Millinocket, but let up enough to let me set up camp when I reached Bear Brook in Baxter State Park. I stayed the week with a great bunch of fellow hikers and we shared food, stories and good times for several days in camp as we waited for the rain to subside.

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Rainbow at Sandy Stream Pond

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White-fringed Orchid Platanthera blephariglottis

On Wednesday we attempted to hike despite the rain in the hope it would clear. No such luck. We hiked in to Chimney Pond in hopes of turning and heading to Hamlin, but we were soon soaked and instead had some lunch at the pond and headed back to camp. Most of my gear was soaked, so I spent the next day or so trying to dry out my boots and backpack just in case the rain stopped and we got to hike. Late Wednesday afternoon it cleared and I took a short hike along the Nature Trail at Roaring Brook where I found a somewhat rare orchid in the bog. From there I hiked over to Sandy Stream Pond in hopes of spotting a moose. I didn't get a moose, but I did get a rainbow. I took it to mean the rain was done and maybe we could hike next morning, but it wasn't to be.

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Cedar Waxwing Bombycilla cedrorum

It rained all night Wednesday and well into Thursday. With no hiking to be done I attempted to catch up on some sleep I had missed the night before, but that didn't work out as the road crew decided to grade the Tote Road and the noise was to bothersome to allow any sleep. It did clear a little, at least it stopped raining enough to go out on a pond drive. I made quick stops at Helon Taylor Pond, Togue Pond and Stump Pond, again in search of moose or deer, but I knew it was pretty much the wrong time of day to be looking.

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Undercast on the Helon Taylor Trail

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More Undercast

Friday had looked to be the best day weather-wise so most of us turned in early Thursday night in hopes of setting out in the morning. Friday morning broke damp and gray, but there was no rain. In small groups we set out at different times and with different trails and objectives in mind. I set off with Dennis and Mike, our goal was to climb the Helon Taylor to Pamola, cross the Knife Edge to Baxter Peak then down to the Saddle. From there we would decide if we would continue on to Hamlin.

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Baxter Peak from Pamola

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The Knife Edge from Pamola

We started out in a misty, humid forest, but we soon climbed right up and out of the clouds. As we began to get our first views the scene was amazing. As far as we could see to our south and east we looked out over the tops of the low hanging clouds. To our northwest Hamlin drifted in and out of the clouds and almost directly to our west and straight ahead the summits of Pamola and Chimney Peak rose before us. We soon arrived at the summit of Pamola where we got our first good looks at the Knife Edge and across to Baxter Peak.

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Undercast from Pamola

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On Pamola

(Continued)
 
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That is a pretty awesome photo of Pamola and the Knife's Edge. I love how its holding back the clouds. We did a similar trip not quite a month ago, but we headed up Dudley and down Hamlin Ridge. We may make it a yearly trip. Well done, and Im glad that some of the weather worked out for you.
 
Continued

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Crossing the Knife Edge

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Down to Chimney Pond

We met up here with Rick and Laurie, and Kit and Kat joined us here for our trip across the Knife Edge. I stood at the edge of the descent from Pamola and thought, "It's all new territory from here." Down from Pamola we started to the bottoming out about fifty feet below, across a short flat area and then began the ascent of Chimney Peak. I had heard that this was the worst part of it all, but I withheld that judgement until I had gotten across the whole way. Ther e were some difficult spots where I had to pull myself up and over, but nothing beyond my capabilities.

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Looking Back Along the Knife Edge

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Another Look

Most of the crossing was more scrambling and stepping around and over rocks than anything like hiking and I stopped often to snap pictures and just to look around and try to take it all in. An oft repeated message about this hike is that photos cannot do it justice, and I was sure mine would be no different. The scale of your surroundings while out there, the thought of the steepness and shear drops from the cliffs, the prayer for angel's wings, the threat in the back of your mind of sudden wind or weather all comes into play as your senses try to consume the incredible vastness that surrounds you. You push on, planning each step carefully so as not to become a permanent part of the legends surrounding these peaks.

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Immature Bald Eagle Haliaetus leucocephalus

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Looking Ahead Along the Ridge

Time seemed to become unimportant as I crossed this wild, broken ridge. It was neither moving forward nor backward. It seemed to stand still as the earth spun on its axis, lifting me up from Pamola, and then gently laying me back down on Baxter. Clouds drifted in and out of this timeless realm like thoughts processing through my mind, until suddenly, there he was before me, hanging like a spirit on the wind. An immature Bald Eagle rode the thermals up from Chimney Pond, up and up until he reached the top of the Knife Edge. He circled over my head once and then disappeared on the wind as secretly as he had appeared.

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The Saddle

As we rose to the summit of South Peak the clouds overtook us. We hiked on through the fog on more level terrain towards the summit of Baxter. The summit brought things back into perspective, time again began to move, slowly, as we stood in line for our chance at a summit shot. Ravens played on the wind as we had a quick lunch. The crowd was somewhat annoying after touching the clouds, so we soon departed and left them behind as we made our way down the Saddle Trail to the Saddle-lands. At the trail junction I looked up at Hamlin, still shrouded in the clouds and decided my legs had had enough for one day. Going back for Hamlin gives me a good reason to return.

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Across to Pamola

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Descending Saddle Slide

We made our way down the Saddle Slide and on towards Chimney Pond. We stopped here again for more food and drink before setting off on the last leg of the hike, from Chimney Pond back down to Roaring Brook. The trip down can be taxing on tired legs as there is no good treadway and there is a lot of stepping around and over the still wet rocks along the way. I tried to break the trip up a bit by stopping at Basin Pond and the viewpoint, but by this time I was ready to be out. Upon reaching the parking lot we were met by Russ who had the bad news that another part of our party had fallen on Hamlin and had broken his wrist.

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At Chimney Pond

Without hesitation Mtn. Pa headed back up the trail with Russ to meet those who had hiked Hamlin that day to do what they could to help out. MJ had been the first to respond to the accident, and helped keep him from going into shock. HH stood by with moral support. From our party Rick had gone on from the Saddle towards Hamlin, but met up with the other party on their way down. He applied his first responder knowledge to the injured hiker as others carried his backpack down. With his arm wrapped in a leg splint, he made good time down the Saddle Slide under his own power. We had returned to camp to share the news and help in any way we could from there. Upon his return he was soon loaded into his car with most of his gear from the week, and was off to the hospital. Report is he is doing fine!

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Group at Chimney Pond

It was a sorry ending to a great day above timberline, but did little to mar the experience for most involved. Sad that somebody got injured, but in the big scheme, lucky that the injury was not worse considering the logistics and remoteness. Three cheers for the injured hiker who self-rescued and to those who helped him get down the rest of the way safely. Hikers helping other hikers is the number one rule of the back country. Injury could happen to anyone of us at any time, hopefully we will have as good hiking mates if God forbid we should ever need them on our journeys. So, aside from the injury, it was a great week topped by a great hike, and I hope it doesn't take me twelve years to get back there again!

Lots more pictures HERE:

KDT
 
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Amazing photos and lovely report. Looks like the clouds were just about perfect on this day. Hopefully the injured fellow is back in biz in no time - what a nightmare to be $$$$$$injured$$$$$ amid trying to enjoy a mountain.
 
Love all the photo's!!! :D

Great trip report and hoping for quick healing of the injured!!
 
Kevin,
I would say that there is no other way to appreciate the immensity of Kathadin and the Knife's Edge then to experience the hike itself. But in my opinion your photos did the hike justice. They were some of the best that I've seen in a long time. In the early 90's we did quite a bit of hiking in Baxter until we began to spend more and more time in the White Mountains. We did the same loop back in 1995.
I think we need to return to Baxter Park soon.
Our best for a speedy recovery for HikerBob.

Donna:)
 
The fog seemed to follow us up Keep Ridge and across the Knife Edge before overtaking us just before Baxter Peak. As the first picture shows the park is divided into two climates by the sharp ridge. The west was in the fog with stifling humidity while the east was clear with a refreshing breeze. I could feel the difference only a few feet off the ridge in either direction. I was jacked with energy from feasting on blueberries which grew in patches almost the entire length of Helon Taylor. Looking from Chimney Pond the ridge we had just crossed looked like a wall that could turn back Genghis Kahn.

Always good to find a new hiking buddy :cool:
 
Kevin, this is the most beautiful photography I've ever seen of the area...just stunning...so many awesome images. Thanks for posting!


Glad you had an awesome time up there! Can't wait to see it...your pics make me want to go :)
 
Still Awesome

After the second look of this report it is even more awesome!!!.
The picture at Chimney Pond is almost Identical to a picture we took on our hike to Wheeler Peak in New Mexico taken at Williams Lake. I can't seem to find it to compare it with your picture.
You captured Katahdin so well. Thanks.:)
 
I saw the first pictures of the Knife Edge you posted on Facebook. My jaw dropped. This morning I read the trip report. Then I looked at the photo album. Then I read the trip report again. I spent the day digesting it and then looked looked at it again tonight. I still haven't found the right expletives to describe it (and as you may have noticed words don't usually escape me). I think Patrick said it best - these are the best images of this (magical) place that I have ever seen. Period. I hope the days spent waiting out the rain in the tent were worth it for you, because I think it certainly was for the rest of us who are now seeing the results.

Katahdin has been near the top of our list for a while now and after seeing this I want to get in the car tomorrow. Didn't know if I could ever bring myself to do the Knife Edge and now I don't know how I can resist (although it still scares the $&^$ out of me). When we finally do manage to make it up there you know that there will be an open invitation for you to join us. Thanks for the amazing preview!!
 
Thanks!

I truly appreciate all the positive feedback!

For those who haven't been, this trip should not only be on your bucket list, but you should plan SEVERAL trips there! There is SO MUCH to see and do there as far as hiking goes.

For those who HAVE been, I hope my photos bring back some great memories, and possibly inspire a return trip, SOON!

Mark- You know I'd love to go with you and Nat! Just say the word!

Hal & Chugach - Thanks! Glad you enjoyed this report!

FG- There is no greater praise on Views than when YOU compliment MY photography!

Mtnpa- It was great to meet you and ma, and even better to spend some time on the trails with you!

JL & Lil D- Glad I could stoke some memories!

Darl- Well, I hope you got as much enjoyment out of my photos as I get out of yours!

Harp- Thanks, and don't worry too much! Bob showed amazing resilience by getting himself down and out to where he could be properly cared for. I'm sure he will bounce back quickly!

Tut- Thanks, I was hoping to do just that!

KDT
 
If someone is in the mood for baxter on Saturday August 27th, I might have a spare slot at the group sites near Roaring Brook. It would require driving up and staying Friday night as we plan an early start on Saturday. I also have reservations for Saturday night, so Sunday is potential backup day. PM me
 
Great pics! I was there the first week of June and I already had lost a bit from memory the awesomeness of Katahdin. Your shots have definitely rekindled some vivid images, laughs and the massiveness of such a great place...
 
More thanks!

Again, thanks all! (Modesty hat goes on) I only took the time to capture what Mother Earth and Father Sky gave me that day, and reminds me that each day is a gift!

@ Una- Don't kick too hard! The mountain will always be there, but bringing home a new puppy? That's something special!

KDT
 
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